Thanks mate, I had not seen that update … installed now but I don’t think it changes anything re usb connections, does it ?
Great that it works. Perfect. Also in summary a USB - EMI - VR - AMD- HUB- Extension Card - Motion Problem😂 but it works. Good races and have fun.
Best Greetings Tobi
Yeah thanks, so far I only have one disconnect but that was when I try connect my Reverb G2 using the usb-c connector. Don’t know if that caused it but have gone back to using the usb-a adaptor… odd really but otherwise has been running without loss of FFB which is a huge improvement now.
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My problems are back, but not every time and I guess it’s the driver/software. When the base is beeping while idle I know it’s causing trouble. I just had the issue every few corners and FFB felt even off for some seconds, so undriveable. Than I changed the steering range from 600° to 900° (which was quite buggy btw), changed the bumpstop from soft to hard and it was gone, almost. I’ve not restarted AC (in this case, but happens in other titles as well) or Truedrive 2120.4_4. I did some laps for half an hour and got one ‘hickup’ I wouldn’t have noticed otherwise. Maybe this is it, but probably not.
Not related to FFB loss, but you can get rid of idle beeps for good by permanently enabling High Torque mode.
High torque mode is permanent since day one and the base was beeping four times while i’m writing this.
Have you tried disabling Hands Off detection?
I would never enable such a function, but switched to the USB 3.1 port and so far so good.
After over an hour of no issue I got two drop-outs making me crash. Luckily only during Nordschleife Tourist drives and no serious online-racing. Dan Suzuki described similar issues with his one and now I’m quite sure it’s not the USB…
From what I know about Dan Suzuki’s case, it was slightly too mismatched power supplies in his R1 unit, that caused the device to just completely turn off for a moment. But if I remember correctly, he measured the power supplies (when not under load), and they were a good match.
Just loosing feedback for some seconds is a completely different feeling and behavior than if the device outright restarts.
I’m loosing FFB and sometimes it comes right back, sometimes it takes seconds. Yesterday it went full opposite lock on the left, but was off in the game during driving. I just boot up my PC and this thing was beeping already 10 times without touching it. It was fully working for months with the same PC, so there is something wrong with the base and I want it fixed.
I might have fixed it myself 
Just wanted to unplug the cables to replace the SC2 with my Accuforce when I noticed the emergency-button-plug wasn’t exactly a tight fit and the cable a bit under stress. I thought let’s try it without, but the base doesn’t work without and makes this beeps when I plug in the cable…
If this was the reason (I’m quite certain) it was the most curious ‘wiggle-contact’ I’ve had. Yesterday I had very short disconnects when driving through the Aremberg-corner on the Nordschleife only (rather light FFB) and when I now think about it, it mostly happened during tight right-handers. My rig can move a little and I think I stretched the cable a bit too much in those corners. My GS-5 and G-Belt need some cables that like to go loose easily, but than there is no motion and it doesn’t come back and Sim Commander refuse to work. TD also refused to connect to the wheel in the last days, but without any notification why. If the emergency-button is missing, TD should put out an error message is my suggestion or at least write something in the error-log about it 
@ [Leynad] the nicest bug fixes are those that you have produced yourself. 
However, the issue of the sporadic USB or FFB dropouts is not really easy, the cause can be due to so many things.
keep my fingers crossed that it works again without any problems
There should be an option to operate SC2 without Emergency Stop Button + Cable connected.
Not everyone wants or needs it and it appears there is potential for it to cause problems. In any case the choice must be the owner / user. Unless there is an industrial safety law in some countries regarding this ? There is nothing as such in Australia or New Zealand.
It would require a new option via firmware I would guess.
The e-stop button is not just a software thing. It also adds an additional level of safety on hardware level by switching off the transistors that drive current to the motor.
Twice this week: Wheel goes full lock to the left and not possible to turn. Happens while cornering when there is some constant force/vibrations happening. The wheel just snaps left to bump stop and you then can’t turn the wheel. It seems to happen after I’ve used the wheel for a somewhat extended period. It’s frustrating and I have no idea what causes it. I don’t get any usb disconnect sounds and all my other devices continue to work fine.
I don’t think your issue is related to the original issue in this thread. Write a support ticket to us via simucube.com website - either via the bot or the support section form, and we will try to solve it.
Great thanks Mika. When this occurs next, is there a log file created by True Drive I can submit that could provide clues?
Hi,
True Drive does not log these events that happen usually in communications between the game and the device. Usually they’ve been some sort of USB issues, but when we had device-side logging of some easily seen communications glitches, there were none.
I’ve opened a support request thanks Mika. I did find a thread on Reiza where users of ams2 have had similar ffb problems. So there could be a chance it’s specifically an AMS2 bug. I’ll see what that community has to say.
Update from Reiza forum: Possible UDP Shared memory problem.
Have a great week 