yeah i agree with this fully, plus there are SC wireless and bluetooth wheels out there if the cable bothers ppl that much
the only thing missing is a budget wireless wheels, something that SC could do for about 300 bucks, make a round budget wireless wheel and a formula/gt wireless budget wheel, it would drive more sales than a new wheel base in my opinion
And earlier posts from GD indicated that there were no plans for HW refresh, just more focus on SW.
Until rep at Expo spilled the beans.
My understanding that itās not much of a wheelbase refresh as building coherent ecosystem with everything tied to the new GD protocol, ActivePedals, wheels, pretty sure motion systems will follow.
And yes, QR will be refreshed as well, may be even based on Asetekās which was loosely based on original SC2 QR.
Could be wrong, but the only reason to upgrade for wheelbase only users would be the new QR, unless of course SC2 FW development stops and all new feature in SC3 wonāt find their way back to older brother.
I donāt see how what they said at the expo is massively different from what was said here.
Of course they are working on the next generation but they also said it will not be anytime soon.
In any case the question everyone that wants to buy a SC2 right now should ask is: Is the current base better for my particular needs/wants than other bases? If yes then buy the SC2, if no then buy whatever base you believe serves your needs/wants better.
We are talking about technology, there will always be something better/more evolved down the road. Stop worrying about it and enjoy what you have for as long as you can.
You mean the difference between officially stating something is actively in development with engineers working on it for some time already, and refusing to say anything at all and even hinting in earlier posts (different thread) that GD primarily focus is SW improvement, not HW?
May be Mika is just under different NDA than public facing reps and product manager thus couldnāt tell us anything.
Doesnāt matter really, of course everyone understood that sooner or later the replacement will come.
I just think communication wise company could do better than keeping existing and potential customers in the dark and then spilling beans like that in public.
Although I honestly donāt know how much damage to SC2 sales that āleakedā info on SC3 will have, usually things like that are not good for business, hopefully reps from Expo knew what they were doing.
Looking forward to more info on SC3, as the cat is out of the bag, guess there is little reason to be quiet on what is in the pipeline.
You said āyouāre talking crapā, thatās pretty much an insult. Iād encourage you to check your tone a bit, not sure why you need to call out people on their opinion here the way you do. I donāt agree with some of your opinions either, but Iām not telling you that youāre talking crap when seemingly speaking for every single user for example (āā¦thatās all we needā¦ā).
Regarding the SC2 QR, I did have issues with it that some other people seem to have experienced as well, in one form or the other.
Had it only been for having to ābumpā the wheel (it never came off as easily for me as the YT video demonstrates) Iād have kept it, but the ball plungers kept failing. Also, I had a tolerance issue with a wheel side part once.
Xero-Play has been working without any issues so far, although I made sure I was sent all spigots with a similar tolerance.
I wouldāve happily used Simucube Link for my wireless SC wheel since I never really got a reliable connection between my Tahko and SC 2, but support told me that Iād experience the same issues. Your support handled my case amazingly otherwise, but I was specifically told that Iām one of the āunlucky onesā where the SC Wireless protocol wouldnāt work due to something in my environment.
Iāve since gotten a BT wheel, which I connect to a BT receiver in my USB hub on the rig - I havenāt had a single issue (0 missed shifts or button presses) with this setup (pretty sure itād be different if Iād connect to my Asus ROG Formulaās BT, which I deactivated).
That said, and after reading your statements about positioning the SC Link where I want, Iām wondering if it was actually accurate that SC Link wouldnāt have solved the issue?
thereās also the question about SC link price, which hasnāt been answered yet, which is nudging me to believe it will turn out to be an expensive dongle
Donāt you have wi-fi antenna included with MB? You can reposition it closer to the wheel, which can improve BT reception as well as it covers both Wi-Fi and BT.
I do, but I donāt use it. When I built my current PC and connected that antenna, I had a hard shut down, possibly a short. I stopped using it since I donāt use Wi-Fi (ethernet cable instead) and donāt connect other BT devices, for me the BT dongle in my USB hub is perfect currently.
I have to force to remove a wheel, itās stuck, itās my main issue with QRā¦
I worked on project A, which was about to end, I would look at stuff B which may come in handy after project A has ended. Stuff B is a kind of new way of doing an older project of ours. The project A just had small things left so my looking into stuff B stayed the same low level for longer period of time. At some point I was asked are you working on project B. I said that eeh yes maybe. āWhen is it ready?ā I have no idea.
Just recently someone posted that his wheel doesnāt come off, and, after following the instructions offered was able to remove it without any problems, soā¦
Once the wheel is off the DD re-enter it, attach the pin, and finally tighten the corresponding screw. If you tighten both you will face problems to remove the pin, while dealing with this you use different strengths upwards/downwards/sideways. Thatās why the steering wheel tilts a little bit. You never should use up/down forces on the shaft, one of the very few no-gos.
the main issue, is I unplug the pin, and the QR is stuck i canāt remove the wheel without forcing
After removing the pin try to:
Unscrew till both screws are pretty on top, or fully remove them for this time.
Gentle hit from bottom to top
Turn the wheel 180 degrees and hit from top to bottom, but be aware the will can suddenly fall off.
No sucsess: repeat the steps, but this time cover up the place you will hit on with something soft and use a rubber hammer.
unswcrew what screw ? I just want to remove the QR wheel side, and I force, at up, and itās okā¦
After the pin has been removed, the screws have absolutely no function. Your instruction does only harm, they are not meant for other than fine adjustment for the user and even that should be pretty rarely required. By constant action of the ball plunger screws, the anodization material on the threads becomes loosened from the thread and could end up on the ball plunger itself, which would make it not as nice to use anymore as the ball would not roll on the pin anymore when you put the pin in or out.
The clickbait title āSimucube Killerā alone had me steer clear from their channel for the most part after this video. A lot of their content is sponsored by Asetek, which makes me question the majority of positive things BM had to say about them. Iām not trying to trash BM, some of their videos are informative or at least were to me in the past, but I wouldnāt base buying decisions on them (or any other YT channel with a larger audience).
As I wrote: just untighten them would be best. And just for one time to get the pin out without tilting the wheel. Till today my wheels came out without any problems, and I donāt have to work on the screws myself.
So you donāt have any problems anymore, or you have them regularly when you want to remove the wheel?
It is provocative title for sure, and BM raised quite a few concerns as well.
But do you really do not even entertain possibility that wheelbase released 4 years after SC2 and using most of their controller FW can be a bit better. After all they have watched and learned as it seems.