Simucube 2 Sound

Hi everyone,

already have a support ticket open, but wanted to ask if anyone made a similar experience. :slight_smile:

My SC2 does this “soft clicking noise”. Best way to describe the sound (Because it’s lost a little when recorded), is: It sounds like you would break a plastic spoon.
My settings and hardware are:
SC2 Pro
SimLab 70mm Extension
Rexing Mayaris Wheel
85% in True Drive, 6% Friction, 15% Inertia, 40% Damper, 40% Static Force Reduction, 4% Low Latency, no other filters

What I did so far:
Lowered the FFB in to 15, 10 and 5NM to see if that changes anything ( it did not).
Took of the USB cable to kill the possibility that it’s the part where the cable is connected to the wheel.
Took the wheel off and shook it (made no noise, so no loose parts inside)
Tried different games (ACC, AC, rF2, PC2, F1, AMS2, R3)
I’m yet to try another wheel (that’s next on the list)

Here are the two videos. In the F1 video it’s at 8 seconds, when the car travels / passes the curb. The other one is a compilation. Better audible with headphones.

Thanks for any advice and experiences in advance. :slight_smile: :slightly_smiling_face:

Simucube Force Reconstruction Filter too low
Slew rate Limit too hi

Just semi-solved it. I tried another wheel and the sound was gone. So that seems to narrow it down the wheel unfortunately.

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The robotic sound is normal and depending on the wheel it gets amplified more.

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Check that the QR screws are properly tightened.

It very well might the structure of the wheel that causes the sounds.

I second @Nrde in that you should make sure all the QR screws are tightened.

However I would go one further and completely remove and then reattach the QR in as minimal form as you can. I have this wheel and you can attach just the QR part using the 50.8mm pattern on the wheels hub. So no 70 to 50.8 converter and no extension.

It’s a pain in the arse with this wheel to do the 50.8mm attachment, especially if you have the 6 paddle version, but it will eliminate any possibiility of a loose attachement in any other part of the chain.

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Where is the extreme shaking in the 2nd video (think it’s Assetto Corsa with an RSS car) coming from??
I doubt that your settings suit neither F1 nor AC.
40% damping kill pretty much ALL FFB (not only details of it), there will be literally no FFB.
6% friction is limiting the wheel in its potential to be turned fast, Fe to counter steer to catch oversteering in corners will be very difficult. Friction is slowing the wheel and makes it harder for it to return to 0.
That is why you added so much static force reduction. The wheel is hardly turnable in corners, must feel like a huge industrial screw that opens/closes a ventil. Static reduction is an effect you don’t feel on straights, only in long and fast corners where you also have high Gforce values. 40% is a value indicating that fundamental physical laws are at work, which are disturbed, not in harmony. Your setting cuts down almost half of the force present.
Inertia is adding liveliness. In theory, inertia can make a wheel spinning for ever, where friction is the contrary. Friction can stop a wheel from spinning at all.
Low latency tries to compensate the latency created by the filters you activated. In your case my guessing is that not even the max value is enough to eliminate all latency.
The shaft extension and the use of the smaller converter will amplify (maybe just a tiny little bit) signals and lead to resonance. I think that this shaking I mentioned could in fact be exactly this: resonance.
The Mayaris is a very stiff, full carbon wheel with 290 mm diameter. The quality should be so high that none of the filters should be necessary.
My settings in F1 are:
In game overall force 25, road 5, suspension 5 . In TD overall force at 80, recon 1, static force reduction 10

In AC: in CM overall gain 100, CSP new gyro 25%, convert steer assist into range compression assist activated, I actually use 250%. Explanation: if you set it to 200, and overall force to 50, small FFB will not change while the larger FFB decreases. At Spa, RSS 2021 per car FFB at 18. In TD 100,%, recon 1, static force reduction 10.
Get rid of damping, friction and inertia, especially for Formula cars.

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Mika, are you talking about the Mayaris itself or the extension/converter??
Giorgio Zegretti made a review and graded it “very good”. Would love to know what you think about it

Thank you very much, I will adjust my settings later!

Its impossible to say without having the wheel at hand.

We have gotten experience that even good quality wheels can have strange click sounds eminating from them, as aluminum components - while being very rigid, can still flex, and the tension relieves with a click when e.g. the whole housing of the button plate and the front plate move at once. Usually tightening screws or sometimes even relieving some screws can help.


It is an extremely good solid lightweight wheel with a great display and leds, not to mention more buttons and switches that your average aircraft cockpit, but I do have concerns about the quality of the “funky switch” they’ve used - it doesn’t seem that reliable. I’ve had a number erroneous inputs from the rotary part of it. It’s certainly not up to the quality of the ones used in the Ascher wheels, or the one used in Simucube’s own Tahko wheel, which is a shame given how much the wheel costs.

I don’t like “funky switches” anyway. A rotary with a press is good, a joystick with a press is OK, but joystick, rotary, and press all in one control is just asking for reliability problems.

I’ll get sent in for servicing when I get bored with it, and have another new toy to play with.

Lol! I use the funky switch only for changing the display sites from the Nextion template. I also had a wrong input, instead of “left” it was “down”. But this can happen while driving (with gloves), because of my unclear/unprecise manual input.
My wheel: Elemento from VPG sim

There is only one manufacturer of the 7way switch in the world, with only one model number. Everybody is using the same unit. And we have seen that they have issues in keeping the quality stable. Some “click” before giving output (button press) to PC, some trigger the button before “click”, etc…

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I didn’t know that there was only one manufacturer - so it’s this one then

If there are inherent reliability issues then I’d rather wheel manufacturers didn’t use them and just stuck to either a rotary with press or joystick with press.

That was on my radar as well along with the GSI, it’s a nice looking piece of kit, but I decided on the Mayaris for a couple of reasons:

It’s a smaller wheel at 290mm - I tend to prefer a wheel in the 280 - 290 range - that said, there’s only 10mm difference between the two. The second reason is that the Mayaris has 2 extra thumb encoders - 6 in total. The final reason is that the Mayaris looks more authentic as an F1 wheel, whereas the Elemento and GSI are both very stylised, but this is just a subjective thing.

Anyway I’m going off topic here.

You maybe saw some reviews on both wheels before you made up your decision. So or so: think we can be happy to have steering wheels like this

Sometimes I am stunned by the knowledge you have. A single manufacturer, worldwide… very special. Thanks for sharing