Simucube 2 Pro + Tahko GT21

Hi guys,

First of all, i have to say congratulations Simucube, the quality of your product is outstanding and the shipping very fast.

After reading many forums, youtuber’s reviews, some bad experiences of friends of mine with other brands, etc… i finally decided to buy the SC 2 Pro, you inspires me much more reliability and seriousness.

I’ll tell you my short experience, just a few days(2) making tests, and i have some easy doubts:

After mounting the hardware I turned it on and the first step that software asked me was to upgrade the base so i accepted.
The process was OK and the current version is 2021.12 + firm 1.3. Is it right? or should i install other version?

The steering wheel was detected very quickly and everything seems to be OK.

I can hear some noise when i turn the steering wheel left/right . It’s like a buzzing of a bee’s wings. I’ve read about it.
If i’m not wrong, it’s normal, right? Can you confirm me? What makes this noise?

I’ve created a new basic profile to test on AC and my first feeling was very similar to my old TS-PC but everything works very very smooth so
you can be much more precise to turn the wheel and i even feel it helps me a little to correct the spin.
I appreciate so much that smoothness cos i was tired of the grainy effect that a belt makes.
I’m sure that i’ll have to configure advanced options much better to improve it but now i don’t know what to modify for the time being, too many parameters.

By the way, i don’t understand why 2 options, low torque and high torque. Low torque is very weird, like more friction and it almost doesn’t
shake your hands, the feeling is…i don’t know…unrealistic? High torque is much more realistic. What option should i choose? I guess the high torque option.

I’ve to read the owner’s manual more in detail cos i hear whistles many times and i don’t know their meaning yet.

Thanks in advance and i hope to share my experiences with community for a long time, profiles, or whatever…



If everything is working OK then it’s fine to use the current 2021.12 version.

That slight buzzing noise is normal when the servo is operating and nothing to worry about :slightly_smiling_face:

Low torque mode automatically adds friction and limits the maximum servo output for safety reasons. There’s no need to ever use that mode when driving as it will always feel unrealistic as you already noticed. Always choose high torque mode before you drive.

Take a little of your time to read through the user manual and you’ll start to feel more familiar with what each setting does. There’s also a nice playlist of tutorials that will help you to get started.

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Thank you for your response EsxPaul.

OK, understood low torque and noises.

I’ve watched some of them and i’m still with them, they are very useful to start.

I’ve other doubt:

When i’m going to run a sim (ACC,AC,RF2,AMS2,RR…) before that, i choose online profiles from people to test them and try to understand better the modified parameters that they changed but i’d like to start from an official setup and try to apply my own changes step by step to adapt them to my driving style. are there any official SC setup to start from?


To the best of my understanding (I’ve been using my SC2 pro for quite a while now, but had to stop for one full year and came back to discover the new Paddock interface - jsyk!):

  • there were ‘official’ setups in the previous offline interface which were quite generic (but good) and all you had to do was tweak them to your liking ;
  • now with Paddock you’ve got multiple setups to chose from… All you have to do is select one or two you like the most and tweak them just like you would have with the ‘official’ ones.

Truth is, there’s no ‘right’ or ‘official’ setup for your SC2. It depends on your likings, your strength, the size and weight of your wheel(s), your ingame setups, the cars you drive, etc.
Whatever rocks your boat, mate!

I had my doubts about the Paddock interface since I had nothing bad to say about the offline one, but now everything feels like it used to so: me happy!

Have fun!

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Hi dECEIT70,

Ok. Understood. Thanks for your response.

I’ll choose some of the online tab and i’ll modify them to my liking.
Software interface is very intuitive and easy to use. I like it so much.

I’m not sure about setups. Which is the best option to configure the FFB? Set the maximum value in True Drive and adjust % in games or the opposite way?


Best option is to set the FFB from True Drive to the highest value that you would feel comfortable in crashes, and then fine tune the FFB from in-game while at observing that there is no clipping.

The worst option (unsafe!) is to set 100% from True Drive and then fine-tune from in-game.


What if it’s 100%… truth is I almost never get violent surges from my SC2 pro. And to get your hands off the wheel is a skill you NEED to learn ASAP, neh? ^^

And THIS I don’t get, really: I thought it was the thing to do. Enjoy the full power of your servo (what’s the point of buying high-end gear if not?) and then see what’s fitting in-game.

So if I understand what you’re saying, if my SC2 Pro is set to 80%, I need to drag the slider in Iracing to 20Nm and move the other one to my liking or till clipping occurs? Weird…

Last thought: if it’s unsafe, that validates most of the remarks about the Paddock interface being possibly unsafe to uneducated users since most of the setups offered there are setting max strength at 100%…

Yep, but the situation is exactly the same when those same uneducated users copy the settings from facebook group or forums, so Paddock really does not change anything in that regard - it only improves the user experience.

I personally don’t think it’s unsafe and I don’t mind the Paddock interface, so I will not fight you over it.
I hate it when others do that, so I won’t. I agree it can improve the user experience.

I would have loved it better if you had just replied to my inquiries.
Either there is a safe way to do it - then show it to us and post some in house setups that you endorse.
Either it’s unsafe, and then yes there is a difference between the two systems.

Truth is you can’t and won’t, and it’s okay: it’s not doable because of all the different wheel sizes and weights, it would kill the purpose of buying powerful servos and the setups you’d come up with would feel ‘meh’ compared to your main competitors… So where does it lead us? And what should we do?

There are liability reasons for us to not to recommend 100% torque right from the start to new users. I’m not willing to go into more details on realistic FFB levels on this thread, it would derail the topic.

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Thanks Mika.

I have tested both options and there’s a huge difference between them.

My first option was to set the game to 100% and TD to 14%. The strength was high, very high, at least for me. I like to feel the road and other details(slip,understeer,etc…) but i don’t need too much strength, very uncomfortable driving for long sessions and damage my wrist (unreal, well, depending what type of cars). I think i was making mistake cos i always tried to tune fine through the TD strength percentage.

My second option and i’m applying now is what you mention “The worst option (unsafe!) is to set 100% from True Drive and then fine-tune from in-game.”
This option forces me to configure the strength game at least to 50-60% to have the feeling very similar to the first option. I mean, to achieve the feeling of the first option i need to configure the game in a very high parameters of strength.

I’ll follow your recommendation and will set TD to 15% aprox.(strong enough for me) and fine tune the game step by step to get the perfect combination.

Thank you all for your support. It’s helping me to get better. The SC FFB is amazing. Spending time to use it i’m enjoying more and more.

I think Mika is pretty clear: Granite does not recommend full power use to new users. Mika is right! For new users it is dangerous and you can get hurt. New users may use meaningless settings with dangerous consequences. So at the beginning of your experience with a DD it is advisable to start with medium / low values. Once you understand how DD works in each game, you can certainly increase the strength of DD. Simucube 2 is not a toy.

In TrueDrive there is a warning/information showing up that the use of online settings are at your own risk. It should be crystal clear to everyone that Fe a collision/crash with full torque in TD and in-game can seriously harm you. Make sure kids have no access. Shaft rotates (not sure but around or maximum 650 RPMS) very quick. If your hair get caught it can end up very serious!

That’s what I thought and implied in my previous posts but thank you for being open about it!

Regarding realism and danger, you’re right! It’s a Pandora’s box kind of situation and we don’t want to open up that lid. Suffice it to say I like pretty high force setups and I enjoy it rough (same for my seatmover). And when people come to my home to play on my system I advise them to stay clear of the wheel should anything shady happen.
The only injury I suffered was with a weaker TM TX when I thought I could handle the low strength involved…
A DD servo is a powerful tool and as such can hurt you.

That’s a Gordian knot, mate. The whole point of my rant…

What is a medium/low value? With motors ranging from 1 Nm to 30+ Nm, the medium point for say a SC2 pro would be 12.5Nm. Overkill for Fanatec DD users. And more than enough torque to break your thumbs or worse should anything bad happen.

And TD or in-game setups are only the tip of the iceberg here. Particular car setups can add so much load to your wheel that you should consider it in the equation too.
Last year (or was it 2020?), I was training for the Nürb 24h in Iracing and we were testing multiple setups. I was the only owner of a DD motor and one of the favoured (easy to use and safe to my teammates) setups was nearly unplayable. The wheel was so heavy I could barely turn it and the SC2 pro was getting boiling hot after a few minutes…
My setup (TD and Iracing in-game) was my usual one and it was the car setup causing trouble.

Long story short, it’s not only a question of numbers. You need to be cautious but at the same time willing to test and try your gear. I don’t understand why you’d want to buy such a high-end product if it’s not to experiment on it’s full capabilities.

Yes, you are right.

This product is very powerful and it can damage some parts of your body if you are not careful.

In fact, i was adjusting the rotation for AMS2 and suddenly the sim did something weird to finish the operation. Some on my fingers still took the steering wheel and this started to trun very fast to center position. it damaged me and one of them has a pain. It wasn’t my fault, just the sim did something weird as i’m telling you. Anyway, now i’m much more carful than always although i was before this bad experience with my old setup even beeing less powerful.

Thanks for your advices.


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