Simucube 2 Pro + iRacing Settings - little overwhelmed

Hi everyone,

I’m a new owner of a Simucube 2 Pro and very new to the sim racing scene in general. I wanted to dial in my settings after having an initial play and used a lot of Google! After which I feel a little overwhelmed to be honest haha.

From what I’ve learnt it seems using the auto function when configuring in game FFB isn’t recommended unless I’ve misunderstood. I currently use Dan Suzuki’s iRacing profile in TrueDrive but edited it so it’s at 50% FFB (12.5nm).

Currently my in-game iRacing settings are (as used the Auto functionality):

Max Force: 28nm
Wheel Force: 25nm
Intensity: 50%

From what I understand Wheel Force should be set at what your base offers. Would I change this to 12nm because I changed in TrueDrive to be 50% FFB? Or would this be left at 25nm regardless of what FFB is set in TrueDrive?

I also learnt that you click on Strength to change it to Max Force. If my research is correct, I would change Wheel Force to 12nm and Max Force to 24nm as this would be 50% output? Read that 40-50% is good to prevent clipping. Watching the F bar in iRacing I only really get close to red or hit it if I’ve crashed etc or really tight corners.

Currently only driving the MX5 but eventually would like to move up to GT based cars (Porsche/Ferrari fixed etc.)

Is any of what I said above correct? Or am I still completely confused?


Yes. Wheel Force is a setting that limits the Auto function in iRacing so that if you drive gently on track until the Auto function becomes available, it won’t set the forces so strong that they would clip all the time. It is a sort of limiter for it but does not affect FFB in any other way.

No. You are confusing clipping and overall FFB strength. They are completely separate things. Clipping is when the sim is outputting constant flatline torque data that is being limited. It is not dependent on wheel base overall strength setting. If you set 24 Nm Max Strength in iRacing, then you liklely would not clip on the MX5 but you would be clipping in many other cars.

Thanks a lot Mika,

Is there a recommended setting for Max Force so that it covers the majority of the cars? Or is it something I should really decide per car? Is the general consensus I should increase it but not decrease it as it would get more dangerous?

I guess I’m worried if I increase it too much I would lose out on detail I don’t want to miss out on.

In general, I set it to somewhere around 30-32 Nm so you would not clip any of the most popular cars. And even the most strong FFB cars have no useful FFB signals above that level except for some of the most violent bumps and kerb strikes, so clipping those is not harmful.

I would recommend to set that level from in-game and then set the True Drive overall strength to get the feeling you want in terms of overall FFB level. Then you can fine adjust in iRacing for each car you drive.

Thanks a lot for your help @Mika!

Would I set Max Force to 30-32 Nm even though my Wheel Force would be 12Nm? As I’ve set 50% overall strength in my TrueDrive profile?

Depending on the above then, and if I’ve understood correctly:

  • Max Force: 30-32Nm
  • Wheel Force: Whatever is the value from TrueDrive, in my case it’s 12.5Nm at the moment as I have it 50% overall strength. If this was 100% overall it would be 25Nm.
  • Adjust Max Force based on car to fine tune.

Have I understood correctly? Sorry for all the questions by the way - it’s all very new so want to get this right!

Does clipping also damage the base in anyway? I’ve only ever ran my Pro at 50% overall strength so hopefully we’re all good - I’m just curious!

Yes. Max force setting sets the level of force in the physics where the wheel base is commanded to have the full available force. Anything more calculated in the physics engine = you are clipping.

Wheel Force is the limit to the Automatic FFB adjustment in iRacing, so that it would not set the Max Force so that you would not be constantly clipping. If you do not use the automatic feature, the wheel force setting does not do anything and I don’t think it actually saves into any settings either.

Clipping does not damage hardware in any way.

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Okay I will get those settings changed when I get back from work. Again thanks ever so much @Mika for all the help!

This is my “Almost” definitive guide regarding strength of the wheel and iRacing:

Basically to answer the questions.

Max Force = the telemetry output that witll send 100% to the wheel… so if the is set at 24Nm then anytime ANY car hits 24Nm the signal being sent to the wheel will be 100% which in turn will output the Force that you set as Maximum within TrueDrive or the SC1 Configuration tool.

This also means that if a car actually would put out more than 24Nm from its telemetry it would then clip to 24Nm and in essence flatline at 100% as Mika mentioned… The MX5 only puts out about a max telemetry force of 13-15Nm so with a Max Force of 24Nm you would never clip that car except for in an accident.

“auto” in the F9 black box is a system that iRacing put in place to maximize fidelity mainly for lower force wheels. This will set your Max Force to the 95% level of the recorded telemetry over a few laps… It does 95% so that it can remove any errant spikes… The problem with “auto” with a higher force wheel is that every car will receive maximum wheel output (as set in the Base control panel). In iRacing all cars exist in the same world and their forces are relative each other… “auto” removes this.

Wheel Force is used to limit the auto function low side so auto will NOT be set below the Maximum output of your wheel in the Base settings. So Yes if you set your Wheel config to be 50% and you have an SC2Pro you would set wheel force to 12.5Nm. this will just keep iracing from giving you a setting which will drive your wheel beyond a specific output of 1:1 with the telemetry.

Specific output is what actually sets your force at the wheel… This is a calculation between your wheelbase set force AND the Max Force… to calculate this you divide the Wheelbase force by your Max Foce setting. So if you have your wheelbase at 12.5Nm and you set Max Force to 25 the calculation would be 12.5/25 = .5:1 or you will receive 50% of the telemetry value at the wheel up to 12.5Nm (or 25 Car Telemetry) at which point everything will clip and flatline.

This is generally why it is reccomended also to just set your wheelbase at 100% and then find the specific output that works best for you. The reason why is this:

WBF -= Wheelbase force
MF = Max Force
SO = Specific Output

10Nm WBF @ .5:1 SO = 20Nm MF
12.5Nm WBF @ .5:1 SO = 25Nm MF
25Nm WBF @ .5:1 SO = 50Nm MF

Note the specific output is the same for all three of these which means the same car would put out the SAME force at the wheel EXCEPT in a wreck or in very hard curb hits. BUT the higher MF means that you can run stronger cars without clipping with 25Nm WBF you can run cars that will put out 50Nm in telemetry without clipping BUT if you have lowered your WBF that same car will clip and you will receive flat lined output with no detail.

Generally speaking I have found on average that people like somewhere around .35 - .45:1 SO

If however your max force reaches 65Nm and you still feel that the wheel is too strong it then becomes better to reduce the WBF.

I think that probably covers more than is needed and there is more in the thread… There are a couple things in the post that aren’t gone over or have changed a bit… i.e. the Smoothing filter is a Telemetry Slew Filter. and the “auto” NOW in the options only sets the wheel force setting based on what it thinks your wheel is… And the Actual Auto is now only accessible through the F9 Black box where you are able to adjust max force on the fly. (essentially being able to alter at the wheel force on the fly)

Thanks a lot for your incredibly detailed post. I will try and digest it fully when I get back from work and will reply if I have any further questions!

I also found this resource in the meantime:

Not sure how accurate it is though?

The calculations are quite simple so that website tool is accurate.

Yes that tool is accurate… I worked with the designer of that tool… It gives you a basic visual representation of how things work… there are a few caveats and alternative set-up methods which I think I went through most of those in the Forum post but the basics are that iRacing Strength works a bit different than many in that all cars are in the same “World” and your at the wheel strength is a ratio based on how much of that “World” you allow to be recreated.

Sorry on the delay, work has been crazy so not had time to digest!

From what I’ve understood looking at your great post here and on the forums I’m going to set at 12.5Nm WBF @ 0.367 SO = 34Nm MF and give that a go.

Meaning essentially if any car provides over 34 Nm then it would clip. I could technically 100% my base at 25Nm with 0.367 SO = 68Nm and it would feel the same say in the MX5 which is a lower Nm car, but could drive more cars in higher classes without clipping.

I think I’ve got this now. I could lower my max force (smaller number) for more feeling and increase it if its too strong and seems easiest to do that at 100% base as the math becomes a little easier in the head.

Hopefully I’ve understood all this correctly!

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Yes that is correct… The one thing to know though at the 100% is this DOES open up the full power of the wheel to all cars… Meaning that MX5 if you wreck while it will generally feel weaker you would get hit with the full power of the wheelbase in a wreck…

If you are just starting out what you have determined will be good and if you move to a heavier car just recalculate with a higher max force as you have done there if you wish to keep the strength at the wheel for the lower cars.

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So this seems to me like it would be nice to just crank the max force slider all the way, then inc/dec the overall forces in true drive. There’s just one problem…

True Drive and Tuner for the active pedals have zero features to adjust things on-the-fly. It feels like that should be on the Trello board. Letting us add key bindings to some settings in those apps. Or am I crazy?

why I can have only 13.5 for the max force, I want 40

edit: need to put rang 4.0 - 7.0, more it’s too much strong

Your slider is in arbitary units. Usually people speak of Nm based forces. Click the Strength label to switch between the two units.