Making the step up to DD soon. I can basically get a used OSW or an accuforce both with a wheel for a decent price. Kind of stuck in terms of what I want to do. Anyone have any advice? My biggest concern is reliability and longevity of the OSW. Also, what’s the resale value like?Having so many options makes this so difficult and I feel like a deer in headlights lol.
Not really the best place to ask that question since it is the Granite Devices forum, but it all depends on what version OSW it is.
I would recommend not to get a pre Simucube OSW as you would be locked into using MMOS software and you can’t run the BISS C encoder.
If you only drive Oval in iRacing I would get the Accuforce. If you mostly road race in iRacing I would get OSW.
It’s the simracingbay kit so it has the simucube board and boss c encoder so it’s pretty decent. I do a lot of GT3 racing with ACC
Buy the Simracingbay kit. No brainier! 
You can get alot of support for that. Settings etc.
Why is it a no brainier? Bias? Lol. Should I be worried that it’s an older kit?
No worries if it is older. SC1 us smoother unit for road racing.
Of course it depends on what the cost is.
900 with the old clubsport f1 wheel and a set of csl Elite pedals. Not the worst I think
Sounds like a good deal to me.
Went with the SC1! Lots to figure out now (:
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if you are on iRacing… more information than you may need is here
https://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/3573261.page
At worst you can find some settings to start with… again if on iRacing you should read
https://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/3770438.page
To understand the ins and outs of HOW iRacings FFB strength system works as it is considerably different than most games…
I wrote both of these to help people getting into DD’s
Thank you so much for sharing. Unfortunately my main sim right now is the bastard child of all sims or ACC. Finding a decent feeling setup for that is difficult lol
I recently replied to your PM on RD. Let me know if you still need help with ACC settings and I’ll try to help. It depends on how you like your ffb but, ACC can be trickier than most to get dialed in.
here would be my OLD Small Mige settings which I tended to use in AC with a 60% gain but I suspect you can go less as I like heavier feedback…
Small Mige w/ SinCOS encoder - 12.86A MMC
Overall Strength = 100%
Reconstruction Filter = 5
TBW = unlimited
Notch = Disabled
Dampening = 2.25%
Friction = .75%
Inertia = 0.0%
Thanks so much! Will try these
This feels very much like my old CSL elite. There are some SC2 settings that I feel like are a bit more “clear” but idk
With settings it is all about personal preferences when you find something close then adjust a little bit at a time.
Damping adds resistance as the wheel gets closer to the set point determined by the game.
Friction adds overall constant weight to the wheel
Inertia is double edged meaning if you turn into the signal inertia will resist and the wheel will be heavier where if you turn with the signal inertia will actually HELP the wheel turn and will make the wheel feel lighter.
TBW - is how much information in the high frequency gets rejected, it is a Low Pass Filter.
Recon filter is game signal smoothing - higher generally means smoother while lower gets more raw. AC outputs at a reasonable frequency so it is possible that 1-3 may be better settings for that game than 5-8 which is more common for iRacing.
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Thank you for the simple explanation, this helps keep it straight in my mind so much more
You’re welcome… One of the few times I haven’t got so wordy to make things possibly more confusing lol…
As usual, bsohn is right on the money with his advice.
My settings for SC1 are in the same ballpark as bsohn / Yours in ACC.