Mige 80st-M04025 Continuous current value and peak current value

Hi all ! I have a question regarding the current value for the mige 80ST-M04025 with Ioni Pro HC and Simucube.

From the motor documentation, I have the following value :
Rated current (A) = 4.4
Peak current (A) = 13.2

Do I need to copy those values for MCC (continuous current value ) and MMC (peak current value) ?

I did that, and that allows me to set the power up to 13.2A in simucube settings… I am wondering if it’s safe …

Furthermore, I found out on this website that I need to multiply the document value by pi… Is it true ?

My hardware configuration:

  • Mige 80st-M04025
  • Simucube 11.2
  • Ioni Pro HC 10707
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You can set mcc to rated and mmc to peak current. Just beware on such a small servo, you need a good mount to whisk the heat away, as that servo will run very hot at max torque.


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these values are in rms , so basically you could put them even higher because in the configuration it is in pos. https://granitedevices.com/wiki/Peak_value_of_sine
so you can multiply these values with 1.414 to get the pos values. If you are going to use this setup for racing i would up the mcc closer to mmc.

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Thanks to both of you.

That means that as long as mcc is inferior to mmc, there is no risk ?

Correct, and as Loukas says, you can take those values each x 1.4142 and use those as settings.


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A good setting is mcc lower than mmc for 0.50 amp or 1amp. You can try ofc.

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Thanks a lot everyone :slight_smile:

Hi, any idea at which temperature it can operates ? Even at around 14A it becomes so hot I can barely touch it…

The servos are rated up to 120 degrees Celcius. If you can keep hand on the servo for one second, then the temperature likely does not exceed 70 degrees.

But yeah, the smallest Mige servos are very inefficient.

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Hi ! I added a 3D printed enclosure with a 120mm fan at one end, and holes at the other.

Now I can run the motor at 16A/15,5A without having the motor too hot (I can put my hand on it for like 5/10 seconds and 16A is already quite hard too turn).

I am adding heat sinks all around and some refinements, and will see if it’s better. If someone needs the 3D files, please MP.


It will help a lot if you can have a thick solid aluminium plate on the front as a mount. I am using a 16mm thick plate for my rig, that helped my smaller akm servos keep cool when doing extended testing during ioni development years…

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I guess so but it would be very expensive to order an aluminium plate that would fit my specific rig :confused:
Otherwise, aluminium heat sinks do a good job, it’s largely enough to run at around 17A

The problem if I run higher current is that the cables becomes just a bit hot (I am thinking about using bigger cables) and yesterday I discovered that the green connector melted :confused:

I think the contact between the wire and the connector was bad. BTW, is it a good idea to tin the cables ?

Heatsinks on the servo surely will help, seeing you can’t really do a solid front-plate …

That melted connector is due to a dry joint, it wasn’t tight enough, like you say, bad connection. I am running 25A pos through my big Bogeyman and have zero issues, of course though, provided the cables can handle the current…but I would be surprised if yours is to thin, to be honest.

Bad connection is my bet…

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Hi Aurelien, I have the same engine as you … I must say that your post has been of great help to me.
Can I ask you what power supply are you using?

Hmm… those heatsinks actually may not help as the motor fins has only thin contact surface to the bigger heatsink on top of it. Direct airflow to the motor fins itself is liekly better solution. If the bigger heatsink would sit on a flat surface (no motor fins at all but flat surface), then another story.

Hi ! I am using the 480W meanwell.

About the heatsinks. I agree, using heatsinks alone doesn’t help that much. Using a active cooling with a fan is very effective, but you then have something quite complex/expensive.

Anyway, I don’t use anything now. It comes quite hot sometimes when I tune the power up. But I can’t use it that way for a long time (more than an hour) because it hurts my wrist… And in any case, it doesn’t seem to wear anything…

Finally, I don’t advice to use this motor. Better go with the 90ST/110ST at least, or go for 130ST. On top of that you will find a lot of motor mount options.

I am now working on DIY sim racing project, like the first H-pattern hydraulic-clutch-controlled gearbox :

Check my Youtube channel to stay tuned : https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCG_ke9iTA74c_AP8a1qd_Dg/


your 480w meanwell is at 48v … right?

(OMG…the H-pattern hydraulic-clutch-controlled gearbox is one of the best projects I’ve seen on the net … :scream: :smiling_face_with_three_hearts:)

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yes 48V. Thanks, I spent a lot of time working on it :slight_smile: