Hello everyone, I was a little baked when pulling my sim gear out of the closet and hooking it back up for a go, I manged to get the motor winding and e-stop connector in upside down and of course it let the magic smoke out when the drive initialized… the little MOSFET is shorted and the two internal regenerative resistors are open. I’ve already submitted a ticket but wanted to post here in case anyone else has made the same unfortunate mistake, did a little searching and it doesn’t appear that my odds are very good…of course just missed the EOL window by several weeks…
I’ve found this post but no recommendation was given for a replacement MOSFET once it’s cooked. I imagine the original has been long out of production, I can’t find anything by searching the markings on the package, and I’m in way over my head searching Mouser and all the parameters for an alternative… Really would love to save this stuff from going to a landfill.
My hardware configuration:
-(SimuCUBE 1 w/ IONI Pro HC) purchased from Sim-plicity
-(‘Small’ MiGE 130ST-M10010)
-(MeanWell SDR-480P-48).
I have replaced those on quite a few devices in years gone by. I used through-hole replacement mosfets, was easier to solder. Just beware, that pcb sinks heat like crazy, you’re going to need a very decent solder-station to replace the faulty components….
I will check later what the part number was for the TrenchMOS I used….
Way back when Esa also gave me the P#'s of for an smd version of the mosfet, which could be used - BUK9Y22-100E,115 or BUK9Y15-100E,115
For the Braking Resistor anything 20w or above with a 2.2ohm resistance… Im using a 50Watt on mine NOTE: if you use a metal encased Power resistor instead of the ceramic it will have HALF the wattage capability unless attached to a Heatsink.
I have fixed several of these in the past as well including mine which I think was probably one of the first ones to actually ever go when they were putting only a 10W capable resistor on board. When I did mine I relocated the Braking resistor Off board which can be done via the Header with the jumper (in place of the jumper) on newer boards if wanted. Be sure to remove the onboard resistor if you go off board.