Not really. I’ve tried that option with irFFB and it does give me a feel for the back end, and that’s good, but not really what’s bothering me. I just wish I had more road feeling, scrub feeling, bump feeling through mid-corner, and more progressively wheel weight loss when understeering. Other sims seem to get this much better.
Im using minforce at 0.6 lately to gain that center feeling
Hi i cannot find your profile, it is still available on Paddock ?
Yes, it is. Try searching for the user broodro0ster in the Paddock. The last O in my username a number zero.
Thank you for your setup.
What is your wheel diameter? I set up 50Nm for Porsche Cup as you showed but it’s really hard with 285mm Aschers f28.
To be clear : there is no real car in the world that will make your steering will oscillate like crazy when driving at 150 km/h in a straight line, absolutely NO CAR will do this (unless you tune it to do this and even with a special tuning, I’m not sure it is even possible to achieve this).
In iRacing, 100% of the cars will do this. Yeah, even GT3 with their power steering…
iRacing’s FFB is terrible, to say the least. It is unrealistic as hell. Oh, and 60 Hz in 2022…figure.
This actually has nothing to do with iRacing’s FFB but just the Force Feedback Protocol in general as it is a self reacting system…
Oscillations occur because the FFB system sends a signal to move the wheel and keeps checking position for when to sent the next signal… If the FFB System feels that the wheel is going too far in the other direction it will counter its original force. the more it feels it needs to stop motion the more force it applies… so it goes back and forth from side to side increasing force each time causing Oscillation…
You are in the middle of this process as the damping factor and if the forces are not enough to overpower you all works well…
This is ALSO why you need filtering on the wheel as you need to add filtering to neutralize this movement, Friction and inertia can help in this matter (friction to slow the wheel constantly, Inertia to slow the wheel BEFORE FFB decides to send a correction force)
It is true that NO Real car would every have this behavior as a real car is completely Passive. As well it only has one brain trying to make corrections… In the Case of FFB you and the FFB system are both trying to make corrections and in some cases this can compete with each other.
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Has anyone ever downloaded/installed a car, and then have the FFB feel broken for that car? I recently just purchased the Hyundai TCR, and the FFB feels like it’s awesome, and then get’s super light mid corner out of no where. This isn’t a normal scrub feeling, but rather feels like the FFB is on some sort of on/off switch, and is switching almost completely off (e.g. no feedback) in the corners. Do I need to uninstall the car or something? Any tips would be greatly appreciated. I can tell there is potential there to be great, but it feels like there is some sort of error at the moment. FFB settings are what @bsohn posted a while back and have felt great for every other car I’ve tried, so I don’t think it’s a settings issue, but I could be wrong.
well being a front wheel drive car I guess it’s a normal behaviour for the ffb
Do you notice the same thing? I can’t imagine that what I’m experiencing would be considered normal, or even acceptable. The difference between forces throughout a single corner makes no sense.
Are you using the same power levels I posted with the Settings?? 100% @ the Base?
the reason is what you describe seems much like clipping… When a car clips it car looses all sensation and starts to feel like you are driving on ice until the force levels come back down into range.
Another cause could be within car Set-up, though I do not know if it can be fixed on the TCR’s, and that is too little caster… With too little caster the front wheels will pass their slip angle more quickly and will then lose feeling and tend to understeer mid and off corner…
The Third thing would be traction loss due to wheelsman…
Telemetry in Motec or ATLAS can probably show you any of these situations.
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I’m using 100% at the base, and then 45nm in game. I will try lowering the power settings even further. Thank you for the thorough response and suggestions.
do you feel that when giving throttle coming out of the turn? if yes, that’s how fwd cars ffb works in sims
It seems very weird that the car would clip at 45Nm so it may be a trait of the set-up / wheel spin… FWD cars don’t like to put traction down while turning and accelerating so when you get wheel spin it can feel like there is little information coming through the wheel… as of course you also get no grip (sometimes though you might get just a vibration from the tires trying to grip). The only way to really find out if this is the issue is if you try using less throttle and see if feel comes back OR checking the actual telemetry.
Not really a question but rather some kind of observation on my side… I’ve been using my SC2pro (batch2) for a while (even though not extensively since I badly hurt my back a year ago…).
With Iracing, I was using the default profile provided by GD and 25nm/50nm in game. It kind of suited my driving style and preferences.
When I switched to the online version of True Drive, I didn’t save the forementioned setup and found that the forces felt were waaaayyyy lighter even though it was still 100% power (in the 2 or 3 new online setups I picked randomly) and 25/50.
I had to change the ingame numbers to 25/35nm approx. to be on par with what I was using before.
I’m really happy with what I get now but I was wondering if anyone else noticed it?
Does the profile you use maybe have static force reduction enabled?
Ain’t it only related to the forces applied while the car is stopped in the pits? If not, then maybe… but I don’t know really, mate ^^
Thank you, mate! I think I had tweaked the advanced mode a bit (100% overall strength, 3 or less recon filter, etc.) but I will try and use it to see if it still feels the same ^^
I’m terrible when it comes to fine tuning my gear, alas…