30/40 in IRacing is OK for about 75% of the cars in iRacing as they will not clip… The iRacing Max Force number indicates the Nm that the telemetry output of ANY car will be clipped to 100% output. So if you have a car that say outputs 45Nm in the middle of the corner and you have your iRacing Max force to 30Nm then any signal from 30 - 45Nm from the car will be clipped to 100%.
So the way to solve this is to figure out your specific output which is the TD Maximum Output / iRacing Max Force… so if you are running 17.5Nm (70%) in TD with 40Nm max force in racing your Specific output will be .4375:1… now since you have a car that you want to be able to say reach 45Nm Max Force so you get that extra 5Nm of Telemetry output to get the same relative feel at the wheel you would need to multiply .4375 * the new Max Force which = 19.6875 this is not the new TD maximum force required to allow for the same relative strength at the wheel but allowing for the headroom for the additional strength car… NOT that higher strength car WILL feel heavier as well it is 5Nm stronger at the wheel. generally though with iRacing if you set Max Force to 60-65Nm you will have enough headroom for all cars and at the above specific output that you would not quite be able to reach those numbers but you could get to 57.14Nm Max Force with TD at 100%
Thanks for sharing your settings Brion! I tried them today with different GT3 cars on the Nordschleife, and it felt good in all of them (except the odd Ford…).
I’ve used Beano’s settings for a long time now which are really great, but because I’m not running as high FFB as he does, his settings may not work as well for me.
It may be because of the slew rate which I usually don’t experiment with, but your settings feel even better with the GT3 cars when running ~70% force in TD and 70Nm in iRacing. This is obviously much lower strength than you are running Brion, let alone Beano… But I guess I find this more comfortable to drive with for longer stints.
I love ‘set and forget’ settings so I rarely change any of the filters, only maybe after a tyre change update. So all I adjust is the strength for each car, and for that I usually play with TD’s strength and leave the ingame FFB at around 70Nm to avoid clipping. And if I want stronger FFB and TD is already at 100%, I simply adjust the ingame FFB (for example the MX5).
There are some exceptions though; I run (even) lower FFB with the LMP2, formula cars, indycar, Nascar and rallycross.
Anyway, it’ll be interesting when we can share settings even easier with the new TD updates! Really looking forward to that.
You’re welcome… I like a little more activity in the wheel than Beano does with his but I don’t like the sharpness than comes with that generally and the Slew Rate is one adjustment that allows for a little bit of the best of both worlds setting… so it is definitely a good setting for people to play with. though I will admit that is where I am currently trying to fine tune as a little too much and the car starts to feel a little dull, but too little and it gets too sharp for comfort… This is probably based mores on power setting relation to feel at that point though. With the LMP2 Cars I generally use the power steering setting in the Set-up to change the force at the wheel… The Miata I will sometimes do as you do and turn it higher and the Older Indycars are just so Brutal that if I do longer races I usually have to drop the raise Max Force While driving through the blackbox to reduce force… But most of the time I just leave the settings alone…
EDIT I think the issue with the ford is that it is a hard car to set-up and I am not sure if they have done any of the tire updates or anything to it so it is still well OLD… You can probably still get a good feeling out of it with these settings but after a bunch of suspension tuning to reduce the roughness of that car.
Does anybody with irffb installed get the problem, when you rotate your wheel to the end of the max bumbstop range, it starts vibrating very extensively?
On my Accuforce I thought Simcommander software was complicated, I didn’t realize how difficult trying to get my Simucube 2 feeling decent was going to be.
The issues with strength are actually present for all the wheels… The Accuforce just hides it behind other layers of things… as it moves the max force settings out of iRacing and into simCommander and buries it under car game feedback or something like that… The SC2 is moderately difficult… It is not insanely simple but if you understand the settings and what they do it is not insanely hard either. It is just a matter of getting the balance of settings correct.
I just moved from an AF as well and my first week or so was a little depressing. Don’t worry, you will get it setup. I think the biggest adjustment for me was just understanding that the SC2 has more inherent dampening and inertia due to the motor so it won’t be as snappy as the AF, but that’s a good thing in some ways and the smoothness is really good.
I take a different approach than many here by running lower wheel power in TD to prevent injury as well as allow for some clipping. I think a small amount of clipping is good, particularly in cars like the Porsche cup that jolt a lot. That being said bsohn’s settings are really good and are a good starting point.
I hope so… I have not been thrilled with my experience so far. No disrespect to the Simucube 2, it is a fine piece of equipment but I might have had my level of expectation set too high.
Hello, first of all thanks for sharing, i want to ask about something i feel in this kind of configuration, i normally uses just 10% damping and nothing else, if i use your config im able to push trothle faster and brake harder and better because the car almost doesnt move when doing both things. I feel more relaxed about losing the car and i feel it a lot of more in “control” I want to ask what is more accurate to reality if you ever driven a real gt car because its like i feel its a bit of cheating compared to my old settings. I know other people who has the VRS base are only using some damping but probably the base doesnt feel the same on same settings. Just asking what think about using more or less efect in terms of simulation.
Personally I haven’t driven a GT Race Car but in my experience from driving race cars… they are rough no doubt but their reactions when set up well are very tame… You are able to react to catch spins you are able to Get on the throttle hard and the car will start to let you know when the back end will lose grip. Snap Oversteer while it does happen in real life few cars do it unless you really have a ton of torque and mash the throttle… You are normally told a bit about what the car is doing…
The Settings I provide feel to me what real cars that I have driven tend to feel like… and the way to drive with these types of settings which is more realistic and aTypical of sim drivers is that you let the car tell you what it wants to do… (which is why it can be easier to drive… You don’t fight the car you let the car do what it does best… When you begin to fight the car the Car will sort of fight back with more and harder resistance, effectively saying NO i really don’t want to do that and if you make me I may bite back (which is when you are Right on the limit… The limit with a real car and a set-up like this is when you are forcing the car to go a little beyond what it wants to It will fight you a bit but it will give you more up to that point where it says NO… and Like in real life this is when you start to sweat and really get a workout and you are essentially fighting the cars wishes to get more out our it…
With Sim Racing most people set the wheels up to be too light and what happens is that you no longer can feel that point where you are asking the car to do more than it wants so you can very easily go beyond this point which intern sends you into that area where the car becomes much more difficult to drive at what you may feel is the limit… That is because you are already at or beyond the limit so there is NO place to go with your driving.
The one thing that you will find is that your set-ups also will start to move to ovave more oversteer inherently which is again more true to real life and also allows the car to be more free which means more speed…
I may still be on the heavier side with regard to the wheel feel and it can be lightened and still get the benefits but going too far will lead you into the Sim Gamer trap of being too light if you are looking for realism.
Hello,
I play on iracing, I had a csw2.5 which worked very well.
I bought a sc2 pro, I installed the TD, last update, here are my settings in the TD and in iracing, I have activated “enable torque mode” but I don’t have the WOW side at all … that’s good but not much better than my old base …
around the world everyone says it’s incredible, I tell myself that I may have missed something
Can anyone help me please ?
IRacing when running, on track, never creates DI Sine Wave… It is strange to see that balloon because iR creates Damping Friction or Inertia only.
Was you running another program when shooting those pics? IRFFb?
