Help finding a new/used replacement encoder for a MiGe 130ST-M10010

Good day all.

I bought a used MiGe 130ST-M10010 (I Know: clown_face:) and it appears that its HEIDEMHAIN ERN 1080 1024 01-03 encoder may have a problem.

Have sourced used ones out of China for $250 to $300 us, but it will take 2 months to get to Canada.

A forum search for my problem was done, with no-joy. Lots of out-of-date info on discontinued products.


  1. Could you please recommend a replacement encoder (new or used) that would work with a SimuCUBE board and ION Pro HC drivers? They do not need to be as high end as the HEIDEMHAIN. There appears to be a precipitous fall off of fidelity when the SimuCUBE boards limits are reached anyways.

  2. What encoder specs and Blind hollow shaft size (6mm?). should I be looking for to work with a MiGe 130ST-M10010? I have a pad full of numbers from the various forums, but some contradict the others.
    [Hiedenhain spec PDF for the 1080 (

  3. I have watched a few videos on testing to see if the encoder is at least putting out a powered signal. I am just not sure what pin (pin 12 or 2?) I should attach the power (5-Volts DC?) and the ground (pins 10 or 11). Once I have the encoder powered up, I attach/insert the multimeter GRD Black - to the same ground as used by the power supply, and the Red + end of the multimeter into the pin that carries the outgoing signal (Pin 2 ,11 or one of the incremental/other signal pins?).

Thank you all once again.

Speed Monkey 12396

Where do you live?
I have a few options for you, but I am in the USA.

It seems to me that the power in pins are 12 for +5V and 10 for ground.

I read your post again and it looks like you are in Canada?

Jack could you post some more pics of your motor?
I want to see the back of the motor. It looks like the made a spacer when they attached the ERN encoder. It is possible that the clamp has losened up.

The Mige Motors have a tapered shaft. Alot of guys used a few pieces of tubing over the tapered shaft to attach the ERN encoder which does not have a tapered shaft. Everything worked just by friction.

But if I remember correctly you posted a pic in a different thread and the encoder was sitting at an angle?

Good news is I have a few encoders here in the USA.
Bad news is I don’t have anymore BISS C and won’t be able to get any until after Chinese New Year is over in the beginning of February. Mige is closed during Chinese new year.

Maybe we could put a 5 or 10k encoder on your motor and get you up and running and swap it out with a BISS C Later?

Thank you for the info Tommi.
At least now I can find out if it is working, or NFG.

Thank you Joe for taking the time to answer my post.

I do live in Canaduh. Vancouver Island to be precise.

Your Q) Is it possible that the clamp has loosened up.

My A) Everything appears to be fitted securely. Note: Two of the four bolt holding the outer black casing were missing. Not what I wanted to see right out of the gate.

Q) But if I remember correctly you posted a pic in a different thread and the encoder was sitting at an angle?

A) yes it was, but the photo made it look more severe than it was. I lightly straightened it, and it is now true to the center line.

Q) The Mige Motors have a tapered shaft. Everything worked just by friction.

A) As I was taking the photos, I thought I would see if I could get a picture of the shaft and coupling and turned the MiGe’s snout shaft to see what rotated and what did not. The coupling stayed still, but I could have sworn I saw a narrow shaft that appeared to have threads on it rotating.
I then went to the other side of the motor to get a better view for a photo, and saw no shaft, but a disk that would rotate, and NO shaft. I guess that answers the friction part. See picture 7.

With 3-D printed spacer.

With spacer removed.

Photo# 7

Is that some kind of magnetic or optical coupling. of do you think I dropped a shaft?

If so, should I unscrew the to Robson screws holding the white spacer to the motor, and see what is in there. I did not find the bitter-end of the shaft that may have dropped out onto the rigs floor plate.
Maybe the tweaked encoder was worse than I thought.

As far as your offer to sell me an encoder to get up and running:
If this one is hooped, then I will definitely be willing to go that route till SimuCUBE gets some BLISS C in. I was totally unaware that they were, but I have been waiting years to find the time to get this rig up and running, so any encoder that would work is fantastic.

Will get you my phone/email to you if we go down that road.

As you may have also read in my other post, I yarded one of the mini USB sockets right off the board, so until Mr. Slow A.S. Molasse has a chance to see if he can repair the board, I am unable to test anything using the Granity software.

You wouldn’t have a spare board laying around that I can purchase? :heart_eyes:

Thank you all.

Speed Monkey 12396

AKA: Jack

Hi Jack I could see in the close up shot that the adapter that goes into the motor is broken.

Sorry I don’t have an extra Simucube board to sell. You should buy it direct from Granite Devices for warranty purposes.

Thomas Cynical Owl in the other thread you started might be able to help you get a shaft adapter if he still has the drawing?

Thanx for the heads-up regarding the fascinating info Thomas had for me on my previous post. I had not checked it yet.

What are the chances of someone noticing a MiGe with his custom encoder mount that he had made and sold to me several years ago? He had done a heck of a good job on it.

I have P.Med him, and as I have several 3-D printers to make the broke shaft, I am somewhat confident in getting this encoder working correctly.

I would like to P.M you as well, to pass along my email addy, as there could be something wrong with the Heidenain and I would then be interested in purchasing one of your spares. Plus, I need all the smart friends I can get.

I will keep you and this post updated as things progress in case it will help a fellow traveler.

Speed Monkey 12396 Cheers
AKA: Jack

Yup let’s see if we can get you going with just a printed part and not having to get any new, expensive electronics. And holy heck, it looks like I have at least the original STL, though not the CAD file. But that should be good so long as we can remove the old part. Might get creative with drilling or heated inserts or something, but probably easier than if it were a metal piece ha! Got your PM, chat soon :slight_smile:

Sure Jack PM me I will hook you up with my email and phone number.

I can’t promise I can figure out everything, but I have been messing with these OSW DD Wheels since not long after there inception.
I still have some tricks up my sleeve. :slight_smile: