Has Kunos nerfed Simucube in favour of Fanatec

Simucube 2 Games
21

i’m using this https://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/hardware-steering-lock-simhub-plugin.39309/
too change my DOR for each car automatically

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22

the game automatically changes DOR per car

in fact all modern games do, just make sure the in game rotation matches the drivers I.E. 900 and 900

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23

The app changes the simucube steering range to the ingame car DOR.

24

yes that’s what all modern games already do

only difference might be you get a physical bumpstop your way, which isn’t useful anyway because you should never be turning that much to hit it

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25

I experience that the Simhub steering lock does a perfect job. It’s a hardware based lock and works with both, the Simucube 1 and 2 models:

26

@Andrew_WOT would you share your new settings for the ACC? Thank you.

27

It’s pretty much what SuperMonaco_GP posted above, except I have just 5% Damping and Friction 0%.
Not sure though why he is setting Sine Wave to 0 though as to my knowledge ACC does not use this effect.

28

And another thing that I have discovered. If you have any pre update in progress Championships or Career, the physics will be way off, cars will be floaty and slidey, almost impossible to drive.
Very easy to confirm by starting Quick race with the same car/conditions. Night and day difference.
Just cancel whatever is in progress and start over.

29

As a fast one in ACC i just dont agree any complaints in here. I am as fast as before and still in LFM top split pace both in race and in quali. Somethings I noticed here many people use too little inertia and they leave the steering lock settings to the game or true drive I dont recommend that.

For example if you want to drive new Ferrari 296 GT3 then make both ingame and Simucube software steering wheel settings to 1000 degrees. Each car has a different steering angle setting and I highly recommend you guys to save a setting for each car and use those settings both ingame and SC software.

If you feel the wheel too weak on center position especially on slow corners use 10 between 15percent inertia. I prefer raw yet smooth settings. So my recon filter is 4 and torque bandwith 1500mhz. Damper is 10 and friction is 2 percent. Ingame settings are pretty straightforward anyway. Just using 100% dynamic damper and everything else is zero, gain is around 30-40 percent. Simucube software gain is just 100%.

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30

Your settings don’t really seem raw to me.
My TD sound settings :
Force NM 65% .
1200 rotation
Reconstruction filter 1
4700 hz
Friction 5
And without all
In play :
Gain 56%.
Rotation 1200
Dynamics 0
With its rules it is sufficiently rough but also smooth.

31

the 1.9 version is so good for me, the best ACC feeling, better than rF2, before it was too much strong, and I had to use static reduction, now I don’t need this last filter

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32

Pretty sure you want Friction for slow turn, little wheel movement resistance.
After figuring out issue with in progress Championships and readjusting, I definitely agree that 1.9 ACC physics and FFB are the best yet, very dynamic with realistic traction loss and slides.

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33

Hi do you mean dynamic dumper in AC at 0?

34

Yes the 2 dynamic damping on 0, since I came back on a rotation at 900- everything is fine

35

So the 900 not 1200 and what do you mean 2 dynamic damping? Sorry I’m bit confused

36

Yes 900* now and dynamic damping 0 and damping 0

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37

DOR
Assetto, ACC or AC, changing DOR based on the car. ACC does not have physical bumpstops, AC has some poorly done implementation but nobody used it until Illya added proper one in CM. (I believe there is also mod for ACC as well, just bumpstops in GT racing are irrelevant as you never crank wheel to the limit)
So technically as long as TD and ACC DOR match, the actual number doesn’t matter. You can use 1200 or 900, it only affects bumpstop controlled by TD. After 1.9 release there was some vagueness around center that myself and few other believe was somewhat alleviated by setting DOR to 1200. Which can be just a placebo. I just never bothered to set it back to 900 to test and just stuck with the max.

Dynamic Damping aka Gyro
Kunos first introduced it in AC and carried over into ACC under different name.
It actually serves two purposes:

  • Gyroscope effect - stabilization force that is increasing dynamic damping at wheel as car velocity increases, it is what helps control oscillation on straightaways that in other sims can only be tamed down by a healthy dosage of Damping and Friction, that if overdone can make wheel lethargic, slow to react, and masks some signal details.
  • Dynamic Damping - damping effect that controls how fast wheel realigns after tires regaining traction, aka SAT snapback. In some titles this can be brutal and feels completely unnatural requiring just like in the first bullet point heavy application of dampening effect with all potential ill consequences.

Of course most things in FFB tuning are based on personal preferences and some dislike the way Kunos implemented this effect, but I would give it a serious try before just discarding in favor of traditional constantly operating Damping with all its ill side effects.

There was a good video from GamerMuscle explaining Dynamic Damping in ACC.

Hope that helps

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38

That’s exactly what you said, personally I prefer the damping at 0, I find the car more precise in its movements.
900* or 1200* I must admit that I didn’t feel any difference.