First time user worries (E-Stop/Hard bumps)?

Simucube 2 Simucube 2 Questions
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Hi,

I apologize in advance for my trivial and dumb questions. I have severe medical OCD and I get stuck with technicalities easily and get worried a lot. Simucube 2 pro is my first real DD base after saving the cash. Therefore im nervous not to brake or damage anything with my own stupid actions. I have read the manual many times and watched videos, but new things pop up and there is user error involved.

First question about the E-Stop/On-Off button:

I had some issues with the Tuner software when I first started the wheel, and the wheel would just keep spinning. So I had to press the Off button about 5 separate times, to test what was causing the issue.
I got it to settle down after switching the profile. Yesterday I got a calibration error and the wheel just started spinning rapidly and I pressed the off button again. Later today I just realized that I had that E-Stop button, instead of the On-Off button…

My question is Is the on-off button mechanically the same action to the wheel, that shuts down the power. Is it anyway different to push the on-off button instead of the E-Stop button. I have now pressed the on-off button about 6-7 times when the wheel was spinning, instead of the E-Stop button. Is the mechanic the same with the on-off button as the e-stop button, could pressing the on-off button cause harm to the wheelbase, with sudden power off action?

Second question about hard bumps:

Like I mentioned earlier I had a calibration error and the wheel started bouncing rapidly from left to right and hitting hard stops for about 5 seconds.

My question is I asume that hitting the motors hard bumps/stops isn’t harmful to the wheelbase servo motor, and it’s suppose to endure this kind of actions? Even if the wheel did it in rapidly many times.

Third question

When I installed the locking pin, it was quite tight fit from factory and I got it pressed in with two thumbs (some force), but after trying to take it out it was quite stuck, and it wouldn’t come out. So I untightened the screws and made the adjustments for snug fit.

My question is Can this cause any damage to the locking balls inside the motor QR, or are they sturdy enough to handle that kind of pushing with hand force? Also do Simucube still sell them individually if asked via support. I read earlier post where someone wanted a spare piece.

So quite absurd questions, and again im sorry to fill the forum with this topic. Just for my piece of mind I would like more knowledge.

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I can’t really comment on the spinning, that obviously shouldn’t happen in a new unit. What kind of wheel do you have on the wheel base?

The back panel button is the power on/off, and the e-stop button just toggles the servo drive current driving logic to on/off.

The wheel could start to spin, since if the wheel is rotated over bumpstops, it will be recentered with around 1Nm of force until it reaches back within steering angle limits.

Toggling the main power button does not harm the wheel base.

There is no fault called “calibration error” in our software. I wonder what kind of situation there was and what the software was telling you?

Those are software generated, no harm done.

The locking ball plungers are not easily damaged, certainly not from any one time operation as you described.

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Thank you Mika for quick answer and help. This is the reason I wanted Simucube.

Just to clarify some parts to my questions and your answers.

  1. The first start up and shaking happened with 320mm wheel and SRB BB Ultra V2 hub. I installed new firmware and set sleep timer to 2 min and paired the wheel. The wheelbase then suddenly started spinning to left and right and would stop only if I took it firmly with both hands and squeezed the wheel in spot. After 5 on/off actions and with little google I resetted my profile [no changes was made to it] then it stopped. The spinning was shaking in small rotation to left and right in 10-2clock. Dont know what caused it in the end, but I asume if it wont return everything is fine?

  2. The calibration error I was talking about, was in game calibration of the wheel in EA WRC. Calibration was resetted and therefore just caused the spin from wheelbase hardstop left and right. Nice to know the motor is supposed to handle that easily. I asume if I use soft or hard bump stop in tuner its not anyway more demanding to the motor or parts?

  3. Just to clarify my main concern. I have the premium on/off switch and I have the back power button in off position. I have turned the wheel off 5-6 times from the premium torque on/off button to off, when the wheel was shaking rapidly. Got overwhelmed and forgot the bigger E-Stop button [user error].

So if I understood correctly, it is the same if I would have just hit the bigger e-stop button instead if the off switch, even if the wheel is spinning and there is motion going on ? Started to think they have different mechanics involved and sudden shut down with the off button instead of the large E-Button would be harmful, and different. But its a relief if they have the same impact on the wheelbase and wheelhub and no harm was done stopping it this way.

  1. Good to know the QR locking pins/balls are not easily damaged. I knew about the tightening option. But I just asumed that this was the factory tightness and pushed the pin in with some hand force, but it wouldnt come out, it left in half way. Now its snug. I asume later down the road that part is purchasable from Simucube?

Sorry Mika for these trivial questions, just want to make sure im doing everything right.

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It is a good idea to have the wheel base in safe torque mode ( = high torque mode disabled) when making settings in sims, so that this wouldn’t happen so easily and aggressively.

No, it is just the feeling on the wheel when you hit bump stop. However, violent shaking can sometimes even damage the wheel itself, or the QR parts.

Yes, spare parts are available via our support.

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Thanks for the follow up answers Mika.

Don’t know what happened with the calibration since it started shaking (user error). Did you mean violent shaking would damage wheelbase itself or only wheel/hub and QR parts. I will use more caution next time. I asume this one time 5s shaking from hard stop to hard stop did not damage the wheelbase itself (Sorry for repeating myself), it was about 60% nm in Tuner. I asume nothing broke from it or made it worse?

Also sorry for repeating, but I asume the third question in my previous post was okey. I mean to turn wheelbase off via the premium torque button even if there is motion, instead of pushing the E-Stop. Will of course use the e-stop from now on.

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QR parts, especially if if kept hold of the wheel. And wheel internal parts, depending on the wheel used.

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It does not matter in any way.