Is it, generally speaking, better to leave in game settings untouched and do the FFB in TD or the other way around?
Or is it mostly a combination?
Ask this because of rally settings I saw in online profiles. Some like the Bakkeruds lower in TD while others are using max torque but only half in game.
Doesn’t make damping, friction and inertia the wheel much too slow in rally?
Im in search of “One profile fits all games” like in any other FFb wheel I had in my simlife, then change Overall force and DI filters to suit games.
Game Signal is everything, if wrong you cannot fake that with TrueDrive filters
Thanks! First, I wish you very much to find your "golden settings"
Your reply does help me a lot. She is making me confident in the way I am setting up. Totally appreciate it!
Is it correct to say that when in TD everything is off and untouched (no recon, no limitation) and only the max torque adjusted I have the pure FFB idea from game/game developers only less or more force on the wheel? If so would the consequence be that the torque of a sport in a crash would be double or even more with a pro/ultimate (if the forces are linear with torque amount)?
Could be, but Slew Rate limit diferencies would be more relevant to reach those Nm.
Take into account the wheel used in each profile… Here comes the use of Servo Constant filters like Friction, damping and inertia
That is a great point!
As of 99% of driving games are developed with Logitech wheels in house
Well guys i am a bit confused on your discussion here. My response to Roland’s first post would be that it depends on the game. In dirt rally you shouldn’t use max strength in TD (more like 40%-50%) unless you want to hurt yourself, but in AC or ACC or AMS2 it could be the other way around.
You are coming from a G29 which is a toy and slow as hell (i know as i had a g25 since 2005, then g27, then the g29…) so you feel now blown away by the SC2 and want to use its max capability (no filters, etc.)… I have been in that place 2 years ago when i got my pro and wanted to use as less filtering as possible. But the reality is that the rotation speed of the wheel of a real car (rally, gt3, whatever) does not even get close to what a direct drive can do. So if you are aiming to something that should feel somewhat realistic and natural, you need to limit the capabilities of the servo motor by using filtering. As @Alfye20 said already and it is very true, most sims are developed for the majority of players which own G-wheels of thrustmasters. The only game you can get away with 0 filters is AMS2 provided that you use the custom ffb file which was developed with SC2 pros.
As well as ACC, and R3E (new ffb) which have SC2 Pro specific profiles and hardly need any filtering either.
For ACC you know my views on it, but irrelevant have you tried ACCFFB by Jabbah? I adds something cool to it! For RE3 to be honest havent managed to dial this in and gave up…got lost with the whole ingame settings thing… If you can share some settings i ll be happy to check again at some point.
Here’s the thing that I was trying to communicate in AC thread. If you don’t like game FFB signal, no amount of massaging with post processing params will make it great, the only thing you accomplish is distorting what originally was intended to be delivered by in game physics.
My personal view but filters should be used only to fix glaring problems, like oscillation, noise, violent SAT, too light and reactive wheel, etc. not to transition it to something completely different.
This is why if you look at any of my settings they are all very minimalistic.
The whole “art of tuning profiles” thing is overrated and blown out of proportion IMO, it’s either you like game FFB or not.
Of course you can spend countless hours chasing non existing unicorns, it is fun on its own but end result is perhaps 90% placebo that only you can appreciate due to efforts invested.
Most of the times just letting specific title FFB grow up on you works much better especially if you are jumping between different sims.
Just my philosophy, I know for sure some may disagree, which is expected and totally fine.
What I do is using less torque. Around 35 to 50 from TD for my sport. In games I reduce crash force and in rally engine a little bit because of BJ shifter. So far these settings are working very good for me. Slew rate I limit because of the handbrake in rally aswell, but not too much.
Some games sure need in game adjustments I assume. I am focusing on WRC 9 and F1 2020 for the last months. I can’t jump from AC to ACC and F1/WRC9. I need to practice and stick to max 2 games at the same time
Totally agree. Is what I tried to say. But way better English, more detailed. I’m very grateful to learn that my approach makes sense
I use 2 wheels (3d in pipeline), all from VPG Simlab. So wheel quality is something I don’t have to waste a second to. Max torque I use is 45% and even less for rally. F1 general FFB 45 to 50, others to 0
Well i understand and respect what you say but i cannot agree with you. There is a reason why i have invested in an SC2 and not playing forza or gran turismo with a g29 on an xbox or ps. These titles are called sims and there is a reason for that. There is supposed to be a realism to it. The physics are there regardless of the settings each of us decide to use. I am sorry but there is noting real when on a spin the wheel turns with 2000 rpm and on a rebound the damping is so much that the feeling is lost so you have to guess. No real car feels like that. These titles are not developed for direct drives so there is that. Simucube, fanatec, etc give us the tools to adjust and personalize. If you do not know how a car should feel, then yes you maybe ready to accept anything devs serve you and be happy with it, let it grow on you with time convincing yourself that this is the real deal. But why should you do that if it feels wrong and unnatural. You talk about unicorns, but guess what, i have found them and i am having a blast with them. I am happy that my wheel gives me feeling and i can sense what the car is doing in all cases, like what a car in real life does…There is also a reason why so many people use the custom file in AMS2 which we have spent thousands of hours in developing, i guess you do not know that but even devs used part of the code in their default ffb, i wonder why…Btw and fyi and sorry to disappoint you, there are many people having appreciated the efforts of myself and other people trying to improve sims either through settings, custom files, etc. Same with IrFFB and ACCFFB.
Of course if you are enjoying your sims with your settings then awesome, you have found the holy grail mate and there is no need to try different things, but let other people experiment and see what fits them. We are not all the same…
Please be nice with eachother. I started this topic this time and did some very bad reposts in the past on other stuff. Back when we decided to go for a Simucube product we were and still are proud that we did. Wherever we discuss, whatever the matter is: reason we are here is our passion/love for simdriving. YOUR posting is civil but from here we shouldn’t go too further away.
Long time, experienced user, some of them say the less the better while exactly same skilled users go with the idea, we have the possibility to adjust whatever so let’s try.
Both are happy with their way. I also want to apologize what I wrote not so long ago concerning TD. I’m sorry for this!
Whether or not to use both game and SC2 filters depends a lot on the game itself. most of the time though it is better for the basic filtering to use the SC2 Filters as they are faster and work off of the uprated signaling provided by the reconstruction filter… Other filtering that cannot be found on the SC2 can be used from game to your liking (though DirectX effect intensity can also be adjusted in the SC2) However with DirectX effects you have to determine if the game is merging effects or using the effects or even has them as Games like iRacing don’t even use DirectX Effects so this sliders do nothing.
The quest to find a one setting fits all games is pretty difficult (not impossible) but difficult. you will probably end up with Per Game settings at the least though I do use my same settings with all games though I don’t jump around much so I haven’t really decided if they need fine tuning for another title.
Power is one thing that you could hold pretty consistent as if say you use 100% power for iRacing (as you should in many cases, though not all), you could leave that alone and use less Gain in a game like assetto because they run off of different power models.
Don’t think that “one for all” is too realistic and was never looking for this. Max torque to leave at 100% ain’t a either if you drive Fe rally