Any time! I wish you, your family and the whole Granite community merry Xmas and a happy new year!
Plus TD has clipping audible notification.
Interesting take on a slew rate, sounds like overgeneralization based on specific titles with “harsh” and grainy FFB signal. But in the end it’s up to end user to decide if full slew rate is useful or not in “simracing”. Just like after mastering a hammer, not everything should be treated as a nail.
It very much reminds me age old debate on Unlimited vs 2000hz TBW, and yes, there is useful data above 2000, not just noise.
So your product line delivers at least between 3 and 6 times of the slew rate of what you consider as helpful? Besides the fact that the total torque available is overshooting modern GT and Formula cars by the factor 1.7 all the way to factor 3.
What is the underlying idea behind the decision to sell a simracing product with “not useful equipment features for simracing”?
Just for giggles tried recommended 1.50Nm/ms in ACC.
“Good” setting, IF you want to lose dynamics, have wooled subdued details, and barely perceived through the wheel kerbs.
Just to reiterate that lowering slew rate is not for every sim and not for everyone.
I will, of course, try @Mika’s recommendation aswell. I never reduced slew rate because I always thought that my Sport is on the “weaker” side anyway; she (definitely not an “it” for me) already could be too dynamic here was not of concern.
I will use it with the VRC Alpha 2023 and the RSS Formula Hybrid 2023 in Assetto Corsa
Hello mate, thanks a lot you have a good one yourself. 1 last question tho, what is the right way to remove the wheel from the wheel base as its really tight in their and i dont wanna break the motor by forcing anything too much, someone said u can go in game without the pin and wiggle it round. The first time it worked fine but the second time was really harsh and got some scratches on the face plate so is there a proper way to remove it?
Also while mounting the base i got some scratches on the bast near the mounting nuts(hurts me a lot). Is that going to have any effects/ impacts?
NEVER do this bro! That’s a total haram “advice”, total stupid, ignorant and dangerous stupid talk.
The pin secures the wheel
(and therefore the wheel’s mass) exactly in the intended position. This prevents imbalance, which could damage bearings and bend the shaft. The result would be a total loss, which is hardly covered by the guarantee. This also applies to extensions for the QR with a length of over 10 to 12 cm. The increased leverage increases the load. The shaft can rotate around its own axis up to 360 times per minute! If hair or fabric gets caught up in the QR the pull force can exceed 130kg/800 N…
Imagine…
The pin is necessary, indispensable. The steering wheel could come off without warning, dangerous as fuck mate. Why are there 3 screws on top of the Simucube side of the Quick Release? Depending on the side you insert the pin the 2 outside screws can be adjusted in the way that the pin is secure and won’t fall off. The middle one I can only guess, never had to use it: maybe you can adjust the preload of the spring.
Insert the wheel into the rails. Tighten the related screw in a way that the pin is placed tight, but still can be removed by hand. If the wheel is a bit resistant flap a single time from up-or downside to get it out. Don’t pull up or down! My wheels get out immediately, without the need to use any force.
The scratches: think we already discussed it, no? They are not a problem. They are evidence that you had to use too much force, you had to use force in a wrong way though.
I am using Buchfink Q1R myself but folks with original SC QR seem to tap the wedge from the bottom to get wheel released.
Alright mate thanks a bunch, think i did that completely wrong(will never again thanks to you) but i dont think its done anything the wheel. I mean it works fine and as it did before so is there anyway to know if somethings gone wrong or will it be fine if i’ve done it like twice ig?
Hi, foa merry Xmas and a happy new year!
A damage would let the steering wheel wobble Fe, due to the weight is no longer in the same proportion everywhere. Even a marginally bent shaft, a tiny deviation only, can cause some vibration/oscillation.
You maybe could hear knockings from affected bearings.
The shaft could maybe make contact somewhere, there would be visual marks from this, and you would most likely also hear it then.
Some parts could become hotter than others. Unusual hot spots could be the result.
I am pretty confident that it takes really rough misbehaving to cause damage, thanks to the outstanding build quality of a Simucube. One thing you should NEVER do is though: activate the main power to the plug from the house BEFORE you attached the cable to the Simucube. ALWAYS connect the cable with the Simucube FIRST, and then use the socket power.
Thanks a lot mate you’re an absolute star, happy new year!
Hello mate, i know you told me not to take off the wheel by force but i need to take it off my base and for some reason it just doesn’t wanna come out. Can u please please help me mate
Hey!
Of course!
There are 3 screws on top of the Simucube 2 side, those where the QR gets connected.
The outer 2 are to secure the pin, they are located in a way to catch the grove/slut of the security pin. So depending on from what side you insert the pin the opposite screw does secure it. Middle hole is either empty, or not needed. I don’t even know what it is tbh. Maybe center the whole thing (not sure about that).
So:
level the wheel, so it can’t fall of.
Untighten all these 3 screws. After that, the pin should come out, even fall off when you would turn the wheel. It must come out absolutely light.
The wheel still doesn’t move:
Level it, DON’T PULL THE WHEEL, it will only make things worse. And you could bend the shaft, damage other pieces.
Gently hit from bottom to top in a straight line. With the first first, just a normal hip.
No sucsess, turn it upside down, BUT BARE IN MIND IT CAN FALL OFF THIS WAY, and hit again.
No sucsess, start over, get a small gum hammer, cover up everything bit to protect it, and start from upside down.
Let me know!!
Mika is coming to help you!!
The center hole is threaded and one can insert a bolt in that if one wants to secure the pin in such way that the mounting is even more rigid or if there is a risk that someone could steal the wheel .
Very clever idea indeed!!
Thanks for that!! Think it’s, sure in my case, absolutely not needed.
And when I untighten the screw/s, and turn the wheel, it falls off immediately, slips out perfect. And while driving it’s a rock solid connection.
And I never used/use something for lubrication (I can hear you guys 
)
Thanks for your reply mate, ill try it in a bit shortly and let you know, also how much do i tighten the screws when bolting back in? Right now, the first bit of the pin goes in pretty smoothly without any force and the last couple bits need to be turn & twisted while forcing it in. I can send a video but do u reckon thats a good amount of force?
you are an absolute legend mate, that worked with the first method without any issue/ force. Thank you so much bruv.
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Great to hear!!! When you attach the wheel let the screws untightened. Then insert the pin, then tighten the appropriate screw.
You can either do it like I do: I tighten the screw so that I can attach/remove the pin, the last part must show really more resistance, the pin must go fully through. But you shouldn’t need brute force. You always can readjust the screw after the wheel is in.
Or you place a screwdriver nearby, and after the wheel is on, the pin attached, make it tight. That would be the full full secure version then.
Yeah i think its secure but the first bit takes no force at all, id say 70 percent of it just slides in and the rest 30 just goes in stiff. Also say that im driving a car with a 360 degree wheel angle & in game settings and td settings are set to 1080 or so. will exceeding 360 during a crash or something damage or reduce life for the base?