Thanks Mika will keep it in mind. I think no damage from this one then as it works fine as of now without any abnormal significant noises from the wheel base
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Hi!
Some basics that are really helpful:
Enjoy the best wheel available!
Thanks mate, appreciate it
These videos are really helpful. They lift the fog on a variety of basic questions, Fe:
What cones first, in-game FFB settings or TD? In-game, then fine tune in TD.
Can I prevent clipping with higher torque in TD? Is there this famous “headroom”, where a stronger DD with more overall torque has an advantage? No. Clipping is caused from the strength of the FFB signal travelling from the game to the Simucube 2. Adding torque won’t help; in connection with clipping the headroom is a myth, a wrong statement.
Each setting available in TD is useful, serves a purpose. So I should use all of them. Wrong, and those you will use in certain situations have drastic impacts. Damping in steps of 1 is very easy to feel, friction aswell. Values over 10 will reduce a huge amount of FFB details. If you see profiles with numbers over 20, sometimes 30 then they are often a result of “torque must always be at 100%” under all circumstances attitude.
Slew rate limitation: the sliders doesn’t limit by Fe 0.2. It will limit to 0.2!! In this case you would have eliminated almost all slew rate available!!
Simracing is extremely fascinating. Although the Simucube 2 models imo are the best products available, the steering wheel alone just can’t provide the full FFB available. For around 150 Euros you can get pedal rumble motors, which tell you about wheel slip/lock, traction loss, road texture ammo. For maybe maximum 100 Euros you get a bass shaker plus amplifier to enable the famous popometer (Michael Schumacher had an absolutely fine tuned edituon).
Such a setup setup will surprise you day after day. It never gets boring 
First of all, Thanks a bunch for all your recommendations mate.
I get a bit of the stuff you’re saying but can u please explain me the term “slew rate” and also, i know what clipping is but is there a way i can feel the wheel doing it? Switching from t300 directly to the simucube 2 ultimate is well, ultimate. Hence im still getting used to it
And thanks a lot for the recommendations as well, i just brought the fanatec v3’s ( i know they ain the best ones out there but on sale for £300 i think they do up a fair one) so the rumble motors are alright
Unfortunately though, ive gone broke after buying the simucube 2 ultimate the v3’s and i’m ordering the trak racer 160 aswell. But i will keep the other things in mind
instead of the tr160 though, can u please recommend some alternatives i can buy? I don’t really mind the price that much but the shipping time for the tr160 is just too much and im literally dying to play this holiday season
Torque Slew rate is the rate of change of the torque signal. If there is a limiter, then the software limits the change rate to the one in the settings. Result is much more smooth and rubbery feel on the wheel. However any real change in feel only comes when the slew rate limit has been set at 1.5 Nm/ms or less - any faster slew rates than that are not really useful in simracing.
No way to feel it other than that the wheel feels just “dead” and that there is no feeling of details in corners. Some games such as iRacing have a FFB meter that would show it pegged in RED when the clipping is happening.
Foa, thanks for the kind words. It sometimes is difficult to find a balance between trying to help, and sounding like an all knowing ass.
Slew rate is the maximum value of torque change per millisecond. .
For the Ultimate model we have:
Max. torque: 32Nm
Max. slew rate: 9.5Nm/ms
Example:
You start driving, you go straight, the torque is steady. Now you turn and hit a massive kerb. The torque can change within a millisecond from 5Nm to 14.5Nm. From there it can stay, drop or increase within a millisecond to maximum of 24Nm or back to 5Nm. That doesn’t mean it will always change that much. It can change only 0.1Nm, it fully depends on what you do or happens. The maximum change per millisecond is always these 9.5Nm. If you have a high speed accident, you drive with 300 km/h frontal into a wall Fe, it would take 3 milliseconds to go from 1Nm to 29.5Nm!!! Be careful, you should hit the emergency stop button ASAP and take the hands off the wheel. See the manual for hands off detection. This is NO TOY AT ALL, it can brake your hand like nothing, and even worse.
A today’s F1 driver has power steering. The torque at the steering wheel is pretty low, maybe maximum 8 to 10Nm while driving. GT cars maybe have up to 15Nm in normal conditions. Your Ultimate is a bit of an overkill to be honest. One thing is sure though: upgrading is a word you won’t use in this life again (from DD wheel point of view).
The incoming signal exceeds in a single or multiple ways the capabilities of your Ultimate. And this regardless of the torque you have set in True Drive. The result is, it will be clipped, not delivered, removed. All details are gone, the information is 0.
And you can visually see it, the colour code of the DD at the back changes, and you can hear it, there will be a beep code coming aswell. Again: it’s really important to read and understand the manual mate.
The rig:
I have a product from a company from Denmark. The PSR1 from Pro Simrig is absolutely top. This speaks for itself:
Especially with a Simucube 2 and load cell pedals with a maximum of 200kg of pressure you will hate any kind of flex. It is not good for beeing fast and ruins totally the immersion.
I hope I didn’t forget too much. If so…I will answer after the hairdresser I’m heading to 
Thanks mika im still messing with the settings so still learning
You’ve been a lot of help mate, thanks a bunch, I’m trying to mess around with some of the settings so I’m getting used to it now a bit. This wheel is truly just amazing, the amount of feedback it gives is insane and some terms were just confusing for me in TD so Again thanks a lot for your help.
Any time! I wish you, your family and the whole Granite community merry Xmas and a happy new year!
Plus TD has clipping audible notification.
Interesting take on a slew rate, sounds like overgeneralization based on specific titles with “harsh” and grainy FFB signal. But in the end it’s up to end user to decide if full slew rate is useful or not in “simracing”. Just like after mastering a hammer, not everything should be treated as a nail.
It very much reminds me age old debate on Unlimited vs 2000hz TBW, and yes, there is useful data above 2000, not just noise.
So your product line delivers at least between 3 and 6 times of the slew rate of what you consider as helpful? Besides the fact that the total torque available is overshooting modern GT and Formula cars by the factor 1.7 all the way to factor 3.
What is the underlying idea behind the decision to sell a simracing product with “not useful equipment features for simracing”?
Just for giggles tried recommended 1.50Nm/ms in ACC.
“Good” setting, IF you want to lose dynamics, have wooled subdued details, and barely perceived through the wheel kerbs.
Just to reiterate that lowering slew rate is not for every sim and not for everyone.
I will, of course, try @Mika’s recommendation aswell. I never reduced slew rate because I always thought that my Sport is on the “weaker” side anyway; she (definitely not an “it” for me) already could be too dynamic here was not of concern.
I will use it with the VRC Alpha 2023 and the RSS Formula Hybrid 2023 in Assetto Corsa
Hello mate, thanks a lot you have a good one yourself. 1 last question tho, what is the right way to remove the wheel from the wheel base as its really tight in their and i dont wanna break the motor by forcing anything too much, someone said u can go in game without the pin and wiggle it round. The first time it worked fine but the second time was really harsh and got some scratches on the face plate so is there a proper way to remove it?
Also while mounting the base i got some scratches on the bast near the mounting nuts(hurts me a lot). Is that going to have any effects/ impacts?
NEVER do this bro! That’s a total haram “advice”, total stupid, ignorant and dangerous stupid talk.
The pin secures the wheel
(and therefore the wheel’s mass) exactly in the intended position. This prevents imbalance, which could damage bearings and bend the shaft. The result would be a total loss, which is hardly covered by the guarantee. This also applies to extensions for the QR with a length of over 10 to 12 cm. The increased leverage increases the load. The shaft can rotate around its own axis up to 360 times per minute! If hair or fabric gets caught up in the QR the pull force can exceed 130kg/800 N…
Imagine…
The pin is necessary, indispensable. The steering wheel could come off without warning, dangerous as fuck mate. Why are there 3 screws on top of the Simucube side of the Quick Release? Depending on the side you insert the pin the 2 outside screws can be adjusted in the way that the pin is secure and won’t fall off. The middle one I can only guess, never had to use it: maybe you can adjust the preload of the spring.
Insert the wheel into the rails. Tighten the related screw in a way that the pin is placed tight, but still can be removed by hand. If the wheel is a bit resistant flap a single time from up-or downside to get it out. Don’t pull up or down! My wheels get out immediately, without the need to use any force.
The scratches: think we already discussed it, no? They are not a problem. They are evidence that you had to use too much force, you had to use force in a wrong way though.
I am using Buchfink Q1R myself but folks with original SC QR seem to tap the wedge from the bottom to get wheel released.
Alright mate thanks a bunch, think i did that completely wrong(will never again thanks to you) but i dont think its done anything the wheel. I mean it works fine and as it did before so is there anyway to know if somethings gone wrong or will it be fine if i’ve done it like twice ig?
Hi, foa merry Xmas and a happy new year!
A damage would let the steering wheel wobble Fe, due to the weight is no longer in the same proportion everywhere. Even a marginally bent shaft, a tiny deviation only, can cause some vibration/oscillation.
You maybe could hear knockings from affected bearings.
The shaft could maybe make contact somewhere, there would be visual marks from this, and you would most likely also hear it then.
Some parts could become hotter than others. Unusual hot spots could be the result.
I am pretty confident that it takes really rough misbehaving to cause damage, thanks to the outstanding build quality of a Simucube. One thing you should NEVER do is though: activate the main power to the plug from the house BEFORE you attached the cable to the Simucube. ALWAYS connect the cable with the Simucube FIRST, and then use the socket power.