Actually some of the bigger eSport Racing teams that run in iRacing do… The output from iRacing at least is so close to the real thing that Motec and Atlas can read pretty much all of the data as it would for a real car… The versions of the interfaces used for the sim are the same as what was/is used for the real life race cars using Motec or Atla tased systems.
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Hi! Hope you doing good!
Something I’d like to know is:
Steering wheels have different weights, different sizes. I once made a test and used my settings for WRC 9 with my F1 wheel instead of the rally wheel. Night and day. You also wrote about “colouring”. I understand that you use your TD settings for almost all cars but mainly in Iracing. I do the same but with different torque settings. While I can use the full torque in AC I can’t in WRC. In theory I could but then I have to set the in-game settings close to nothing. If you drive a car with power steering in Iracing and then, let’s say an older NASCAR, are you still using the same settings, I mean 1 to 1?
The steering wheel Diameter difference is the thing that will dive you the most day and night difference when switching wheels, Weight if the wheel does cause a little Nateral inertia difference which can result in the wheel being slightly more subdued or active… But the diameter actually changes the way you perceive the steering. I.e a smaller wheel feels quicker as you do not have to move your arms as much to get to the desired angle. It will also change the feel of the weight a little due to leverages, but that is one of those things that is variable because as the wheel is moving the amounts of leverage required to do things changes.
The thing with Settings WRT strength settings is those do have to be game specific i.e in iRacing I use .6:1 Specific output with the wheel at 100% this means that in iRacing i have my wheel set to output at 60% power. In AC I have the Gain at 60% and it feels a bit heavier than iRacing (still with the wheel at 100%). So you will have to find the in Game settings for strength for each different title that suits that game. and yes depending on how their feedback is you MAY or MAY NOT actually hit the mark as far as filtering as games can also color the feedback in their own manner.
Due to the way iRacing works… IF you want to feel the differences between the Power Steering Cars and Non Power Steering cars you would leave all settings the same regardless of the car being driven… The Telemetry will output the correct forces for each car… For me I do fun the same .6:1 output (25/42 Max Force = .595:1) for all cars… However due to just either feeling everything (lost information due to amplitude) OR Not being strong enough I will tend to up the Miata to 1:1 25 Max Force and Lower the Indycars a bit to 65-70 Max Force .35-.38:1 (the Indycars are beasts over the length of a race).
BTW this is with the SC2 Pro
I haven’t driven the Vintage Nascar much but when I have I did leave it at the normal .6:1 I use.
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Thanks! I don’t remember when I learned so much about simracing in so short time. Enjoy your weekend, you really earned it! Stay safe and, again, thanks for the infos provided
Yea there is actually a lot more than just strength and wheel filters that can actually change the feel of the car… Unfortunately it isn’t the easiest thing to set-up a car in the real world and it is a bit of a black art… The thing though is that the closer you have the wheel to neutral settings the easier setting up a car becomes as you can actually feel the differences in the set-up feel within a couple of corners of a change and you can actually get into the fine tuning of literally minor degrees and even in some cases if brave enough asssymetric setups and be able to feel what each little change does.