I can not understand how people can decrease their graphical settings with a 1080ti to get 500 FPS and then they try to get himselves convinced that they will have zero input lag.
And then they put all effects to zero to get the maximum ultra mega driving simulation experiencie , doing totally the opossite to what the developers desing.
One of the most wonderfull experiences ever is to be one second faster than them with v-synced 60FPS ,with maximized graphical ,DI effects and Game effects on.
…
I see some videos floating around with video settings suggesting to turn off completely post processing effects. Lol. Playing pacman 2018.
In ac i believe you can achieve better results by capping the frame limit rather than vsync , but vsync also works.
@Gonzas
Perhaps I’m not clear enough: I am playing with those settings. Reason picture is zero is twofold: the first settings I was directed to are from S. Keitel (sorry for butchering your name) he has these at zero. And so secondly, I thought I’d start there through process of isolation understand more about what they actually do. I thought I was clear when I stated I’m well aware they should not be zero and I’m currently testing them out: that the implication is that I’m well aware they should not be zero and I’m currently testing them out. Natural consequence of playing around with them is that any picture I send is incorrect within a matter of seconds. So I sent zeros.
Please don’t misread my tone, I don’t wish to come as unkind. I’m just trying bit confused as to the implication I’m a big derrrr-brain for doing something I’ve explicitly said I’m not doing! No harm though 
@Loukas_Bourdas
These settings are the mangled love child of S.Keijtel’s (sorry again) and dar5555 from a well read post. I think Mr. 5555 suggests we change that setting.
Have to say I played with ffbclip last night and that meant the gain went up and I felt the car get upset with revs as expected so that’s cool.
And I haven’t done as you’ve suggested, play with each car adjusting individually, that is the mission for tonight
Take everythin into consideration and try it for yourself. I am giving you suggestions because what may be perfect for me and mt setup ,may be awful for you. Drive the car , change that setting and see what it changes and if it changes something. That also goes for that setting i told you about. Although as i told you with your settings bec you have 0 direct dampening you wont feel a difference but it is always better to understand for yourself what an option in the config ini realy does.
I would like to know yoyr pedals. If they have a loadcell i would advise you to change the brake gamma to 1. Works out great for most cars.
I would also like you to tell me if with these settings your wheel oscillates. That is pretty important.
Ffb clip is a nice addon but i dont use it anymore. It is better to feel the car and make adjustments yourself. Although it was a good starting point for me aswell.
Hehe 
Dont worry, and sorry me too, i was not pointing at you , inwas talking in a generic way.
Just came from a thread on rF2 OSW users and i dont understand how people that have been using for years DI dampening hided on their Logitech, thrustmaster or Fanatec drivers and now they get an OSW and try to get rid of any DI damping …because they do think damping is Evil or something…
When damping is way more necessary on OSW than on comercial wheels…
In the meanwhile Mika is working hard to get those DI effects work as they should, when the talibanese hardcore simulation OSW users thinks that those DI effects are Evil…
I have a mix of settings taken from here and there, i will share them too as soon as i arrive home.
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Also in my opinion atm ioni damper is miles better than direct dampening for assetto corsa.
@peteisace tonight if you have time also try with road effects set to 50 and tell us how it feels
There is a lot of information and ideas about OSW and AC in the 114 pages of the OSW Owners thread in the Assetto Corsa Official Forum.
http://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/index.php?threads/osw-owners-thread.28560/page-114
Atle Dreier, the man who invented the FFBClip tool once told me, “My tool is redundant with a direct drive wheel.” Although this was before he created a DD specific add-on to his tool.
As I understand it, if you keep the Overall Strength in SimuCUBE (and before that Mmos) high and the AC Gain lower, you should not have to worry about clipping. e.g SimuCUBE 100%, AC Gain 32%.
There is no rule that says you must or must not use the extra effects in AC. There are many who claim they are canned effects, and even more who feel you don’t need them with an OSW. It is personal choice.
@peteisace Tonight, with no AC effects, drive a car over the grills that run lengthways along the pit lane at Imola. Then do the same with AC road or kerb (I can’t recall which) on at 45% and you will feel the difference.
The key to disabling the effects in Assetto is to also disable the input effects on the Simucube side. Magically the kerb effects and all that are there! I think it feels immensely better in both translating the road surface and in the force feedback. I used to hate Assetto and now I can stop playing it. And its even better on 0.9.9!
@Loukas_Bourdas I wasn’t aware of the brake gamma. I have a load cell so I tried it and wow what a difference!
So much better!!
I also had my graphics down as I’d seen it stated that the FFB is tied to frame rate. I cranked it all back up and set v-sync and I can’t notice a difference in feel. Thanks so much its nice to have it all look pretty again!
Glad you like it. Get used to it and you ll lap faster. A lot faster. Brake confidence is essential.
road effects 50 seems pretty good. playing around with ffb per car tho seems to be where it’s at. i’m running gain of 50 (may try even higher, because i think some effects are a bit muted) but taking it down to 65 on the user effects so the wheel isn’t mentally difficult to turn. road effects 50 seems better than not, but honestly it’s quite hard to attach it to a particular sensation.
currently, there is no oscillation, the wheel basically doesn’t move if i drive in a straight line. but i only checked after setting the DAMPER_GAIN to 1.0. i’m not sure if that was what you were looking to ascertain. my pedals are the Heusinkveld pros with clutch. and yes it had the load cell which is why i used the brake gamma setting.
right now the ffb feels pretty decent in AC, I think the only think now that stands out is this feeling of it being a bit muted when the car is going. but, i do think it’s a lot better than what i came to the forum with.
and of course thanks so much to anyone who took their own time to suggest or even to criticize. all feedback is welcome, absolutely it is. i will continue to play around with the user ffb settings and the ones in AC, and possibly relationship of gain + user ffb.
thanks!
I have those pedals also and id definitely go with his recommendation of no gamma. Linear for the brake setting for sure. You will adjust to it pretty quick.
@Ceolmor didn’t know this about ffbclip , although i am not going to use it , it is a nice feature.
There’s an option page with some new settings:
DD-mode. Enable this if you have a DD wheel. It will set all gains in Nm, and enable the hardware torqque slider. Set this to your wheel’s maximum sustained torque.
@peteisace
If you are using max Nm in simucube config then i think gain must be less than 50. I cannot say for sure since i haven’t played with small mige but . if the wheel is hard tp turn that means you have higher ingame gain than you should and it is basically not reallistic since no car has that stiff wheel. Road effects work in collaboration with gain so you have to find a good match, but you also need curb and slip. In due time i believe you will nail a combo that you will like. In game ffb per car varies a lot from type of car and gain that you have used, but in general gt2,3 and dtm, f1 need more than road and drift cars.
Ler me clarify about damper gain.
You have direct dampening at simucube set at 0
So 0 and 0 damper gain gets you 0
Also 0 and damper gain 1 (or higher for that matter) gets you 0
Now if soneone proposed you to try direct dampening for some reason , let’s say 25% . if you still had damper gain at 0 you would still get 0 .
The only damper that is permanent and doesn’t xare for damper gain is ioni damper in simucube configuration.
I wanted to check if your wheel oscillates. I guess it’s not that big of a problem for small mige as it is for big, to have to set ioni damper in order to avoid oscillations. Just to be crystal clear about this , in order to check it try at a bit higher speeds and don’t just let the wheel in the straight but give it a bit of motion left to right in order to see if it will center by itself.
Maybe because is used on low speed for gyro effect?
Maybe to have some kind of resistance when the car is stacionary?
Maybe because ioni dampening is working all time and not only when the devs want it…?
Just maybe…
Ioni damper is constant and has nothing to do withthe damper gain in the config ini. It is relevant to direct dampening though.
Think of damper gain as volume gain on your favorite video player. If you set it at zero at the player even if you set volume at 100 on your os ,you will still listen nothing from the player. I don’t know if it is a good example but it was the first i could think of.
@Gonzas i have seen your post with your test with gyro and direct dampening. Dunno how it works on small mige but in big mige atleast in our setup it doesn’t dampen the oscillations. Only ioni damper fixes that.
I play with a friend on fridays and he have the same Augury kit as me but with a large mige.
And we can share our settings for almost all sims , just changing gain, except AC.
ATM the best settings for me are… (umbrella open) Gyro=0 damper=1 gamma=0.5
Rekon =1 TBW=unlimited, gain 100, all ioni filters 0 , DI damping on 35%
Ingame gain 40% , damping and minforce on 0, enhanced understeer 0 , and a bit of effects 8% curbs, 20 % road and slip.
Im very Happy with those settings with my small mige, i have oscillations, but if i touch
the steering wheel with one finger i dont have them, and i can feel understeer as soon as i lose grip, same with the rear of the car…
But those settings seem to be not working fine in a large mige, seems that bigger inertia makes gyro absolutely necesary and he have to add some ioni dampening yo avoid the rough ffb punch when he comes again to the track after going to the grass or sand , same going over some curbs.
So, yes they behave quite diferent.
I am certain that they behave differently since all reccomended settings coming mostly from ppl with small mige don’t suit the large.
Just to clarify something , you set gamma enabled 0 with 0.5 , or gamma enabled 1 with 0.5 . i am asking because the value of 0.5 will take effect only on the second example. Although i believe you use the first example and you should know that the value 0.5 set in the first example is bypassed.
If you have time try to play with damper min lvl inside the ini. Since its % don’t try high values. Start from 0.05 or even smaller and work your way up but don’t overshoot 0.25 . It could eliminate those oscillations for you. Ofcource another way is to set a really small amount of damper in ioni, but from what you have said so far, i can understand that oscillations is not tha big of a deal for you since they are not that heavy like in the big mige.
With big mige we use 3% damper and 0.50 friction. Gyro on all else stock. Only downside is in drifting high speed countersteer causes overvoltage and loss of ffb. Other than that it is phenomenal with gt2 gt3 f1 etc.
Since you have the small you are more qualified to give your opinions in this thread
We are going to use the big mige with another psu and when we have more info about that we ll give our thoughts. We ll also get a small mige to test in due time.
[HEADER]
VERSION=1
TYPE=GAMMA
ENABLED=0
[GAMMA]
VALUE=0.5
[LUT]
CURVE=crazy1.lut
0 and 0.5 … so… that 0.5 does nothing…
[FF_EXPERIMENTAL]
ENABLE_GYRO=0
DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL=0.0
DAMPER_GAIN=1.0 ; Set to 0 for Logitech g920
that damper is for Directnput damping, i have set it at 35% on the simucube config tool.
1 of 35% is 35% 0.05 is very low even with DI damping at 100%… 5%
anyway it does not remove oscillations, but seems to help to not to START oscillating if gyro is off.
i will try to make a video
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I know that it is a percentage of the value set in direct input dampening but i didn’t want to advise you to set 100 direct dampening and damper min value 0.15 or 0.2 or 0.3 and try these also with gyro on. The reason i didn’t want to tell you something like that ,is that i can’t test them myself in small mige to see how it reacts. I can’t reccomend specific numbers but i am sure your setup is already great , don’t know if it can get even better.
if you want something from me to test , there is a small mige here for whatever you want.
i from time to time i put gyro on and try, but i always get into the same conclusion, is great on high speed corners and it removes completly the oscillations but it dampens somehow the feeling on understeer on low speed corners.
and i dont like at all the “enhanced understeer effect” that you can activate on controls screen , seems to be quite overdone and unrealistic.
i will try gyro with no DI damping or very low and add a bit of ioni damping .
regards
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