Thanks very much for the fast response Beano. Brett Stiles from HRS said you’re very busy but you might be able to point me in the right direction.
I’m definitely not an electronics expert but I have tested both the slow burn fuses with the multimeter and they were fine.
I’ll have a look at the link and try to work through it.
Thanks again,
Kind regards,
David.
Do you hear one or two relay clicks when you power on the unit?
Hi Mika, Thank you for responding so quickly, I just tested and hear only 1 relay click when turning on the control box.
There have been some failures with the High Voltage relay during the lifetime of the Argon product. Not a huge number, though. The failure will also cause a resistor to fail.
https://granitedevices.com/wiki/Argon_supply_voltage_troubleshooting
Thanks very much again for the prompt response Mika, and I’m sorry for the slow reply (I was asleep here in Australia)
Could I try this below that was posted by The Granity Team in another post ?
The RL2 is marked with blue in the attached picture.
It’s possible to get the relay moving again by connecting 5-9 Vdc to the coil pins multiple times. The relay is specifed to be driven with 5 VDC so if you use higher voltage, please be sure that the contact is short to prevent overheating and overloading.
The coil pins are pins A1 and A2 marked in this image:
Thanks,
Kind regards,
David.
I forgot to ask Mika, Will it be the R7 resistor that I’ll need to change if I don’t have a reading on the multi at a of resistance +/- 2 ohm ?
Thanks again.
if it shows open circuit (off-scale high resistance), then you need to change the resistor. But the underlying cause is the relay.
Excellent, thank you !! I’m sorry I’m definitely new to electronics. Thanks for your patience.
Hi Mika,
Should the RL1 be in the NC position like the photo below. The Coil of the relay reads 800ohms but the NC reads O.L (Open) on the multimeter ?
Hi Beano,
I’ve tested the Rectifier and All diodes gave readings of 0.4 to 0.5 Volts.
I’m a noob to electronics, so I’m always more than happy to listen and learn.
Kind regards,
DC.
Good thread so far guys.
Maybe a good learning tool for future
Troubleshooting.
Thank you again Mika.
Hi
The startup sequece of Argin is so, that when Enable and STO have their voltage connected, the STO-relay is switched. It will connect the HV voltage to the motor/power side of the drive.
Also, after this, the HV voltage bypass capacitors are charged trough the R7. When the voltage has stabilized and is withing parameters, the RL2 is switched into a short. This causes the second relay click.
You can try connecting the mentioned 5-9 V to the RL2 coil wires, just make sure the contact is a short one (say 0.5 sec) to prevent overheating.
Please measure the R7 again. It was originally specified to 33 Ohm, but was changed to 100 - 130 Ohm to further soften the startup procedure. Measure R7 with ±200 Ohm setting.
The RL1 (HV switching/STO relay) is connected to, that it’s normally open (NO). Your measurement is correct, as the NC (normally closed) is not the one used.
I hope I expressed myself clearly. If not, please let me know.
Kind regards,
Esa
Hi Esa,
Thank you very much for taking the time to explain the sequence and yes it’s very clear even to someone as inexperienced as me !!
I’ll let you know how I go as soon as I have checked.
Kind regards,
David.
Hi
Actually there’s one error in my explanation. The STO relay needs only the STO voltage. Enable signal is required otherwise to enable the drive.
Kind regards,
Esa
Good morning Esa,
I’m sorry for the slow reply.
Just an update, I’ve put 24vdc across the coil on the RL1 and 9vdc across the RL2 and both relays are working properly. But the R7 was open circuit and was a 5 watt 33 ohm resistor.
So clearly, and more than likely the original R7 resistor, would you suggest to change mine to a 5 watt 100 or 133 ohm considering mine is a 2014 manufacture on the control box ?
Thanks again for your help,
Kind regards,
David.
Hi Esa,
Quick update, R7 5W 100Ohm Resistors arrived today, installed, tested OK !! Yahoo !!! All working again, So I’d like to thank the Granite Devices Team for helping a Technical Idiot Like Me fix the problem.
Kind regards,
David Carroll.
Hi
Good to hear that you got your system running again!
Kind regards,
Esa
Hi guys!
I will use this thread to ask some advices for my similar build.
Me and my friend both had a similar issue with Argon based OSW’s. To make things more interesting mine started to fail the day before my friend was coming to my place to switch components and investigate what’s wrong with his build. Anyway,
So in the end we both had no phasing and under voltage. My friend got it fully working by replacing the said R7. Mine started to phase normally too after I replaced the same component (2 clicks during the startup) but I have no feedback at all. I can see the position number working logically but it’s quite far from 0 when my wheel is centered but if I launch the wheel when it’s close to 0 there’s no difference. I can feel no resistance at the bumpstops nor with MMOS’s desktop effects. I cannot see any errors in Granity and voltages are good.
From where I should start investigating what’s wrong? I’ve re-installed all the firmwares, double-checked wirings with a multimeter.
Thanks for any advices.
My Argon settings:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/12WTEA43wPN3N2UUMpIjui91R5AW_Pvrh?usp=sharing
