turned everythign off but torque strength in SM and ran with gain at 40% but everythign else off,
when i initially turned on the simucube, it oscillated something awful, once i ran a lap and let go it stopped, and in game felt super dead minus car weight shift/tire loading.
i turned up the kerb/road/slide/and ABS effects until it felt better,
it’s weird to me that it goes crazy when cold but settles down after a run…
Is High Torque Mode on?
no it was not at this time, i forgot about it honestly, and yes it does stop the craziness initially. but goes nuts after turning the wheel and coming back to center , or it did prior. will have to test this out later, i am going to try a bit different mounting too cause it seemed to occur less often after re tightening everything, and i don’t have a rig so i kind of have a frankensteined desk solution ATM. and tryign a different mounting solution will take a couple days to figure out somethign else.
Did you insert the lock pin?
Did you adjust the top screws in a manner that the lock pin only can be removed with a bit of force, that there is a a certain amount of resistance when removing it?
Did you make sure the pin goes all the way through?
Did you make sure everything from wheel side and DD side is absolutely tight, built according to the manual?
If you can’t mount the Simucube in an appropriate way then I recommend you to be really cautious. Don’t use it at all, or with much less force. On the picture torque is at 100 percent…
Also try the settings I wrote you before. Btw, you limited slew rate TO 0.1, NOT BY 0.1. Not sure if you wanted that.
Direct input filters: damping and friction at 0, leave the rest at default 100. Just to be sure it doesn’t cause something unwanted.
In game settings? From controller menu, steering range and FFB would be good.
In the car setup menu, the one before driving: Check the value for steering assist. If it is a car with power steering use 80 to 100, where 100 is normally the default value from the car designer.
Finally: when you are actually on the track, open the setting “FFB” from the menu to the right. If overall is at 100 lower it to 20, try, not enough, increase it
Any dd wheel will go crazy with zero filters. Please grab a suitable profile off discord to help you in the beginning. There is nothing wrong with your wheel.
@phillip.vanrensburg
Phillip, what makes you think this way? I never had oscillations, only when I tried profiles with very high damping settings, and especially heavy ones with high friction settings.
Fe AC, cars like the RSS Hybrids 20 to 23, VRC Alpha 22/23, but also the famous Indycars from the nineties are very good to drive without using much filtering. The Kunos Ferrari SF70H, Emirates mods aswell. In-game 35 to 40, TD from 80 to100, recon 1, friction at 3, a bit static force reduction, never ever had oscillations.
I see so many paddock profiles with every single filter used, with each direct input filter changed (although they aren’t neither available and therefore can’t be active), which isn’t a good sign for me.
About OP and his Simucube 2: he already stated that he used recommend profiles, which didn’t help.
I don’t think it’s helpful to tell a total newbie, he received it yesterday, to grab a profile somewhere on discord, when he didn’t even knew about this community.
It is very likely there is nothing wrong with the product. But categorically denying it, “suggesting” to look for a profile somewhere is not a help IMO.
If you play crazeRacing. 
you apparently forget it oscillated like crazy after a firmware update with all factory basic settings from simucube in true drive and no profile or game loaded.
Asetto corsa gain was at 40%, so 40 % of 17 Nm. or 4x1.7 6.8 Nm gain. also the serttign shown it did not oscillate in game, but did outside game on power on, and stopped after a few laps and exiting the game, i also did another power cycle after and it did not oscillate again, so i dunno. again i’m working on a new mounting method, currently using the Moza desk mount in conjunction with the simu wheel base mount. there’s a LOT of friggin bolts/screws, and liek i said i don’t have a rig, primarily because i do not have room for a rig at this time so am forced to make due with what i have, which is a desk.
lock pin all the way in, yes, i removed all true driver factors outside of torque allowance, so it would have no input in those regards, i then kept gain in AC, but removed the effects percentages, and made sure gyro was not enabled, then worked up the effects percentages in content manager from there. which seems to be working mostly. but i also think it may be my moza/simu franken mount that is playing a factor in this.
it honestly seems like each wheelbase has it’s own quirks from what i’ve read before i posted.
And you apparently forgot to mount the base on a desk and attach a wheel. No need for sarcasm.
If @CLAYREGAZZONI feels offended by my comments or not, something for him to deal with. If you run those low filter settings and claim zero oscillation, either you have an extremely heavy rim attached to your base, or, you run 5NM torque, or a combination thereof. You’re welcome to come visit me and I will show you what a dd wheel, with those filters, at 20-30NM, will do yo you running the old DW12 Indycar. I am quite sure you will be pretzelised.
There’s a lot of bovine fecal matter doing the rounds sometimes, guys. It’s not helpful to the newbies. There are a few very simple and basic steps to take to see if the base is faulty, or if the problem is PEBKAC. Once that is determined, then we can move the next step and actually support the guy with good tuning advice.
@Exit_eternium You will do well to mount your base properly, attach a wheel and apply a good baseline profile, activate high-torque mode, that should settle your wheel down. And no, not what goes as a baseline profile for some of the guys, as their wheels will never be stable.
Do the following: Set Damping, Friction and Inertia all to 20%. Set Reconstruction Filter to between 3 and 6.
Set Low Latency Filter to 8. Set gain in the True Drive Window to 100%. All these inside the True Drive Tuner. Next in iRacing UI, iRacing, set the wheel max force to 35NM.
Let me know if it still oscillates when you drive, and take your hands off of the wheel. If not, then there is no problem with the wheel, and you need to seek advice here how to set the games up proper. @Andrew_WOT is a good resource for most sims, I can help with iRacing. If it is oscillating in iRacing with those settings I mention above, contact your seller for further support.
If the above settings (other than maxForce) have my 47NM wheel stable, it will stabilise yours too. One more thing, make sure to test a few different sub ports on your PC, as I have had cases in years gone by, where usb on certain Asmedia-based usb chipsets were very poor, with often unpredictable results.
PS: If you don’t have a rig, go to your hardware stores grab a large g-clamp, and two blocks of wood, just make sure you strap the base down to a solid timber desk or something. These bases are tuned very aggressively and starting them down firmly will help tame harmonics, to a large degree. And make sure you have a rim attached, for the same reason.
The game doesn’t output Nm. So you can’t rely on that assumption. When AC was released there were no such strong wheels around. Aris, which was a main physics developer at Kunos for many years made a video about FFB.
Do I understand you correct, you don’t have these crazy oscillations no more?
I wrote you that I use between 80 to 100 percent in TD, and in AC 40 percent overall gain. So I obviously don’t run 5Nm.
OP received his Simucube 2 2 days ago and started with AC. Why do you write about Iracing, which is an absolute unique simulation with also a special way of setting up FFB, with using in game Nm as the single title I know doing so??
Why do you compare your DD with a Sport?? Why in god’s name a Sport user should use 20 percent damping, friction and inertia?? Sid you even tried those settings with a Sport?? It’s absolutely garbage, total crap, believe it or not.
Why do you propose 20 inertia without knowing how heavy his wheel is?? Accordingly to the manual inertia is a solution for extremely light wheels, and not a per se setting. My rally wheel is more than 1.5 kilos, my F1 wheel around 1.1 kilo, both without QR. And now you tell me to add 20 percent inertia, thanks a lot for this awesome tip.
I understand that you need these settings with a wheel with 45Nm or more. But you can’t transfer them to a Sport 1 to 1. And claiming to have the biggest one, that your wheel is too strong for me…of course it’s too strong for mostly everyone Why should I use 50Nm with a formula car with power steering ??
It’s not about me or you. It’s about OP. The Dallara, do you think it’s a car for a user for the first few days?? Writing about Iracing, when OP uses AC only is nothing but preferring to write about yourself, rather than helping.
I think you need to put your glasses and you will see why I recommended testing the wheel at those settings. Then we know if the wheel is indeed ‘broken’ as both you and him seemingly want to think.
Then, if you read further, you would notice I mentioned that once this stage is done, then either people can support him with tuning, or, if the wheel is defective, he must contact the reseller. You obviously have an issue with me for some reason I noted, it seems that is causing an impairment somehow between your retina and your visual cortex. /sarcasm
At least in my world, basic steps are required to do basic diagnosis and troubleshooting. Throw some numbers in the filters, see if oscillations seize. If yea, good, reduce all filters by a few % points each time, until instability is reached, wherever that level may be. And yes, it will be dependent on wheel inertia, torque settings in TD tuner, gain in the sim. Then start settling the wheel down based on one’s own preference.
Any one giving some basic troubleshooting advice should know these things. Maybe in your world, pulling all sort of hypothetical scenarios from your rear orifice, is the standard. This is not the first time that you had these weird ideas about certain topics.
Anyway, I am out of this one, as you obviously know so much more about these things then others. Good luck to you and the OP, and wishing you a good weekend. This is my last comment to you.
No bro, that’s not really the case. 99.9 percent are IMHO working absolutely flawless
You bought a very complex, high end product. I know this sounds lame, but I strongly recommend you to read the fucking manual, and read it carefully. It will help you to get rid of some misconceptions, like:
More torque will prevent clipping. That’s wrong. Clipping is caused from in-game FFB settings only.
Filtering in TD will enhance FFB signal and the FFB signal’s quality. Wrong, a bad signal/low quality signal cannot get more quality.
Filtering is a way to deal with the forces and to sort out unwanted noise coming with the signal. Filtering takes away a bit of details and information (that’s why it’s called filtering). Some filters are adding a bit of latency.
Ultra low latency mode will help me always. Wrong, it’s a setting to compensate FFB latency from titles with low FFB refresh rate like Iracing. Iracing has an update rate of 60Hertz, while AC has 333Hertz. So ULLM is not really needed for AC.
Maybe you should also look at this videos. They provide really a lot of useful information.
That’s absolutely nonsense. Where did I say his wheel is broken?? If I think it’s broken, why would I even write on then?
OP also thinks it’s because of the bad mounting, and maybe some of his settings on top. No-one does think his Sport is damaged.
Where you get this idea from? Did I ever insulted you? I don’t think so.
I wrote:
In TD:
Make a new profile
Force 50 percent, steering range 900, bumpstop 900, recon 1, no damping/friction/inertia, limit slew rate to 1.5 (so you don’t have extreme forces when crashing), direct filters input damping and friction to 0, rest at default.
Direct input filters: damping and friction at 0, leave the rest at default 100. Just to be sure it doesn’t cause something unwanted.
If this is wrong to start with in AC, and looks like I say that the base is defect I’m absolutely willing to glue my glasses/contact lenses to the eyes.
i have them LESS, and now i don’t feel it on straights. ( capitalized for emphasis)
however if the unit sits off overnight, when i first turn it on, it’s still crazy initially, but grab the wheel move it around a bit, or start a game it goes away.
I’m looking at sim labs P1-X mounting plate currently and a way to brace it to the desk, as that should be more solid than the 20+ bolts franken mount. if anything i may have to bite the bullet a bit and get some extruded 8020 40 series aluminum.
the manual with the device was rather lacking, i assumed the online manual was similar, 2 or 3 pages with one page dedicated to parts included. before moving to the next language.
i also want to do some dirt rally 2.0 but am currently printign my Sequential shifter and ran out of PETG. as well as looking at SRM for a fanatec to USB conversion wheel as i currently only have the GOmez X29 ( came in the microcenter bundle) and 800+ on a taihto seems a bit excessive…
thank you for the advice and this isn’t jsut to you, i just can’t reply to two people at once, can we stop slapfighting here guys. i have seen the wood board and G clamp method, and it is in the running for solutions, as the P1X is 124 more i have to throw at a setup. meanwhile a 2x4 i can cut into two pieces and the clamps i will need is more liek 50. and i do need to consider that as well.
the benefit to the P1X however is when i do go to an extruded aluminum rig or make my own rig, i already have my mount. but again there are many considerations such as rig compatibility and others that are also outside of the sim setup. ( kid’s B days coming up, and wife always loves to go all out on those)
i don’t have Iracing, however it is a future potential subscription, just not one in the immediate future, as AC has plenty of tracks and DR 2.0 will also have plenty of content to suck more time out of my life.
i’m also wanting to get a freind to try AC again ( i initially bought AC and a PXN9 not realizing it wasn’t even a geared force feedback wheel, and money was a bit tight that year) and maybe he and i have a few fun races. of course when we first played he started off with a lamborghini and ran into every wall on the track the first time we played and now refuses to touch any racing game…
And got much worse recently, to be honest. I understand community help value with DIY projects like OSW and to some degree SC1, but may be we should reserve technical troubleshooting to GD staff. I can see only Mika posting here but there are much more engineers supporting on discord.
In OP situation, I think support ticket is all that was needed to get a proper help.
well it’s fixed, i used settings given by CLAY, after goign back throuhg his post and makign sure i moved the specific sliders he said to and not just zero’d everything and made sure everythign is tightened, and retightened everything on base, wheel QR etc, all good now. thanks guys. first DD, so no idea what is normal and what isn’t.
