Asetto corsa gain was at 40%, so 40 % of 17 Nm. or 4x1.7 6.8 Nm gain. also the serttign shown it did not oscillate in game, but did outside game on power on, and stopped after a few laps and exiting the game, i also did another power cycle after and it did not oscillate again, so i dunno. again i’m working on a new mounting method, currently using the Moza desk mount in conjunction with the simu wheel base mount. there’s a LOT of friggin bolts/screws, and liek i said i don’t have a rig, primarily because i do not have room for a rig at this time so am forced to make due with what i have, which is a desk.
lock pin all the way in, yes, i removed all true driver factors outside of torque allowance, so it would have no input in those regards, i then kept gain in AC, but removed the effects percentages, and made sure gyro was not enabled, then worked up the effects percentages in content manager from there. which seems to be working mostly. but i also think it may be my moza/simu franken mount that is playing a factor in this.
it honestly seems like each wheelbase has it’s own quirks from what i’ve read before i posted.
And you apparently forgot to mount the base on a desk and attach a wheel. No need for sarcasm.
If @CLAYREGAZZONI feels offended by my comments or not, something for him to deal with. If you run those low filter settings and claim zero oscillation, either you have an extremely heavy rim attached to your base, or, you run 5NM torque, or a combination thereof. You’re welcome to come visit me and I will show you what a dd wheel, with those filters, at 20-30NM, will do yo you running the old DW12 Indycar. I am quite sure you will be pretzelised.
There’s a lot of bovine fecal matter doing the rounds sometimes, guys. It’s not helpful to the newbies. There are a few very simple and basic steps to take to see if the base is faulty, or if the problem is PEBKAC. Once that is determined, then we can move the next step and actually support the guy with good tuning advice.
@Exit_eternium You will do well to mount your base properly, attach a wheel and apply a good baseline profile, activate high-torque mode, that should settle your wheel down. And no, not what goes as a baseline profile for some of the guys, as their wheels will never be stable.
Do the following: Set Damping, Friction and Inertia all to 20%. Set Reconstruction Filter to between 3 and 6.
Set Low Latency Filter to 8. Set gain in the True Drive Window to 100%. All these inside the True Drive Tuner. Next in iRacing UI, iRacing, set the wheel max force to 35NM.
Let me know if it still oscillates when you drive, and take your hands off of the wheel. If not, then there is no problem with the wheel, and you need to seek advice here how to set the games up proper. @Andrew_WOT is a good resource for most sims, I can help with iRacing. If it is oscillating in iRacing with those settings I mention above, contact your seller for further support.
If the above settings (other than maxForce) have my 47NM wheel stable, it will stabilise yours too. One more thing, make sure to test a few different sub ports on your PC, as I have had cases in years gone by, where usb on certain Asmedia-based usb chipsets were very poor, with often unpredictable results.
PS: If you don’t have a rig, go to your hardware stores grab a large g-clamp, and two blocks of wood, just make sure you strap the base down to a solid timber desk or something. These bases are tuned very aggressively and starting them down firmly will help tame harmonics, to a large degree. And make sure you have a rim attached, for the same reason.
The game doesn’t output Nm. So you can’t rely on that assumption. When AC was released there were no such strong wheels around. Aris, which was a main physics developer at Kunos for many years made a video about FFB.
Do I understand you correct, you don’t have these crazy oscillations no more?
I wrote you that I use between 80 to 100 percent in TD, and in AC 40 percent overall gain. So I obviously don’t run 5Nm.
OP received his Simucube 2 2 days ago and started with AC. Why do you write about Iracing, which is an absolute unique simulation with also a special way of setting up FFB, with using in game Nm as the single title I know doing so??
Why do you compare your DD with a Sport?? Why in god’s name a Sport user should use 20 percent damping, friction and inertia?? Sid you even tried those settings with a Sport?? It’s absolutely garbage, total crap, believe it or not.
Why do you propose 20 inertia without knowing how heavy his wheel is?? Accordingly to the manual inertia is a solution for extremely light wheels, and not a per se setting. My rally wheel is more than 1.5 kilos, my F1 wheel around 1.1 kilo, both without QR. And now you tell me to add 20 percent inertia, thanks a lot for this awesome tip.
I understand that you need these settings with a wheel with 45Nm or more. But you can’t transfer them to a Sport 1 to 1. And claiming to have the biggest one, that your wheel is too strong for me…of course it’s too strong for mostly everyone Why should I use 50Nm with a formula car with power steering ??
It’s not about me or you. It’s about OP. The Dallara, do you think it’s a car for a user for the first few days?? Writing about Iracing, when OP uses AC only is nothing but preferring to write about yourself, rather than helping.
I think you need to put your glasses and you will see why I recommended testing the wheel at those settings. Then we know if the wheel is indeed ‘broken’ as both you and him seemingly want to think.
Then, if you read further, you would notice I mentioned that once this stage is done, then either people can support him with tuning, or, if the wheel is defective, he must contact the reseller. You obviously have an issue with me for some reason I noted, it seems that is causing an impairment somehow between your retina and your visual cortex. /sarcasm
At least in my world, basic steps are required to do basic diagnosis and troubleshooting. Throw some numbers in the filters, see if oscillations seize. If yea, good, reduce all filters by a few % points each time, until instability is reached, wherever that level may be. And yes, it will be dependent on wheel inertia, torque settings in TD tuner, gain in the sim. Then start settling the wheel down based on one’s own preference.
Any one giving some basic troubleshooting advice should know these things. Maybe in your world, pulling all sort of hypothetical scenarios from your rear orifice, is the standard. This is not the first time that you had these weird ideas about certain topics.
Anyway, I am out of this one, as you obviously know so much more about these things then others. Good luck to you and the OP, and wishing you a good weekend. This is my last comment to you.
No bro, that’s not really the case. 99.9 percent are IMHO working absolutely flawless
You bought a very complex, high end product. I know this sounds lame, but I strongly recommend you to read the fucking manual, and read it carefully. It will help you to get rid of some misconceptions, like:
More torque will prevent clipping. That’s wrong. Clipping is caused from in-game FFB settings only.
Filtering in TD will enhance FFB signal and the FFB signal’s quality. Wrong, a bad signal/low quality signal cannot get more quality.
Filtering is a way to deal with the forces and to sort out unwanted noise coming with the signal. Filtering takes away a bit of details and information (that’s why it’s called filtering). Some filters are adding a bit of latency.
Ultra low latency mode will help me always. Wrong, it’s a setting to compensate FFB latency from titles with low FFB refresh rate like Iracing. Iracing has an update rate of 60Hertz, while AC has 333Hertz. So ULLM is not really needed for AC.
Maybe you should also look at this videos. They provide really a lot of useful information.
That’s absolutely nonsense. Where did I say his wheel is broken?? If I think it’s broken, why would I even write on then?
OP also thinks it’s because of the bad mounting, and maybe some of his settings on top. No-one does think his Sport is damaged.
Where you get this idea from? Did I ever insulted you? I don’t think so.
I wrote:
In TD:
Make a new profile
Force 50 percent, steering range 900, bumpstop 900, recon 1, no damping/friction/inertia, limit slew rate to 1.5 (so you don’t have extreme forces when crashing), direct filters input damping and friction to 0, rest at default.
Direct input filters: damping and friction at 0, leave the rest at default 100. Just to be sure it doesn’t cause something unwanted.
If this is wrong to start with in AC, and looks like I say that the base is defect I’m absolutely willing to glue my glasses/contact lenses to the eyes.
i have them LESS, and now i don’t feel it on straights. ( capitalized for emphasis)
however if the unit sits off overnight, when i first turn it on, it’s still crazy initially, but grab the wheel move it around a bit, or start a game it goes away.
I’m looking at sim labs P1-X mounting plate currently and a way to brace it to the desk, as that should be more solid than the 20+ bolts franken mount. if anything i may have to bite the bullet a bit and get some extruded 8020 40 series aluminum.
the manual with the device was rather lacking, i assumed the online manual was similar, 2 or 3 pages with one page dedicated to parts included. before moving to the next language.
i also want to do some dirt rally 2.0 but am currently printign my Sequential shifter and ran out of PETG. as well as looking at SRM for a fanatec to USB conversion wheel as i currently only have the GOmez X29 ( came in the microcenter bundle) and 800+ on a taihto seems a bit excessive…
thank you for the advice and this isn’t jsut to you, i just can’t reply to two people at once, can we stop slapfighting here guys. i have seen the wood board and G clamp method, and it is in the running for solutions, as the P1X is 124 more i have to throw at a setup. meanwhile a 2x4 i can cut into two pieces and the clamps i will need is more liek 50. and i do need to consider that as well.
the benefit to the P1X however is when i do go to an extruded aluminum rig or make my own rig, i already have my mount. but again there are many considerations such as rig compatibility and others that are also outside of the sim setup. ( kid’s B days coming up, and wife always loves to go all out on those)
i don’t have Iracing, however it is a future potential subscription, just not one in the immediate future, as AC has plenty of tracks and DR 2.0 will also have plenty of content to suck more time out of my life.
i’m also wanting to get a freind to try AC again ( i initially bought AC and a PXN9 not realizing it wasn’t even a geared force feedback wheel, and money was a bit tight that year) and maybe he and i have a few fun races. of course when we first played he started off with a lamborghini and ran into every wall on the track the first time we played and now refuses to touch any racing game…
And got much worse recently, to be honest. I understand community help value with DIY projects like OSW and to some degree SC1, but may be we should reserve technical troubleshooting to GD staff. I can see only Mika posting here but there are much more engineers supporting on discord.
In OP situation, I think support ticket is all that was needed to get a proper help.
well it’s fixed, i used settings given by CLAY, after goign back throuhg his post and makign sure i moved the specific sliders he said to and not just zero’d everything and made sure everythign is tightened, and retightened everything on base, wheel QR etc, all good now. thanks guys. first DD, so no idea what is normal and what isn’t.
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Hi Andrew,
After a few decades in process control environment, there are a few basic things when someone tells you the process controls are not working. Simply, I switch the controls to manual. If the prices stabilises, we know the tuning is incorrect. If it doesn’t stabilize, then we know there are other factors upstream contributing.
With DD wheels, the process is similar. If things are oscillating wildly, there are only a few basic things to do. Ensure a solid mount of the device. Ensure a wheel rim attached. Apply judicious filtering to the 3 main filters, to see if that stabilise the wheel. Ensure you are in high torque mode, and I typically recommend iRacing, as it has the lowest FFB rate, if you can stabilise it in that sim, then any instability in any other sim can be tuned out via sim adjustments.
This was a simple request for OP to try, the end result would have been to remove his fear that the unit might be faulty, see his first post, last part. After that had been established, then the helpful community would surely have provided him the correct settings for whatever his sim of choice.
I didn’t appreciate passive-agressive replies by both of them. But hey, now I know in future just to keep my trap shut. No issues.
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while i initially may have been passive agressive the “there’s nothing wrong with your device” comes off as unhelpful, fan-boi-ish, anmd immediately ignores the valid concern that somethign may be wrong in exchange for a potential fallacy.
there is always a chance something got past QC and made it out in the wild that is a faulty product, or that damage may have occured during shipping ( especially on some of these midwest roads, potholes large enough to swallow a truck) it’s also been a trend in my luck the last several months that i wind up with the random POS that squeeked through on products everyone rants and raves over. so immediately treating my concern with such disdain comes off as agressive and fervant, and considering some of the communities i’ve come across ( Star citizen cult on Spectrum being one of them thanks to a friend buying me a package so he would have someoen to play with) i find such statements extremely stand offish and agressive.
i apologize if i insulted you somehow with my reply. but having dealt with blind zealotry for a corporation it felt the appropriate response.
I know youre new here but hes one of the reasons we have DD wheels now. There are probably few people that know as much as he does and have tested as many as he has over the years. So any time he comments hes only trying to help or offer advice. No fan boi-ish stuff ever from him.
As a new comer however that isnt what is prtrayed, as anyone new has no idea what his history is or what experience he brings to the table, i am also stating it so he is more aware of the optics he presents when he posts like such.
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Asetek has, other than Granite, default profiles made by themselves. They offer it at least for Iracing, AC, ACC and F1 2023, and for 3 wheel bases, the Invicta, Forte and la Prima.
The official Asetek default Iracing profile for the Invicta with its 27Nm includes, among other settings, again, for Iracing:
Damping 0
Friction 0
Inertia 1
PS: No, I don’t have any intention on buying an Asetek wheelbase. I stumbled upon this by accident.
i haven’t used any invicta wheel but i would like to try those settings with one. But i am really skeptical if those settings will feel any good in iracing.
I have no idea. I just see it as maybe a good starting point. Imo those who build something are also the ones normally knowing it the best.
ffb is personal taste so it could vary alot. It could be a good starting point i guess
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