Using lower FUV setting than the 90% PSU nominal voltage is fine. This however will try to drain the PSU during the highest power peaks. The only practical difference with good quality switching mode PSU’s (like Meanwell) is whether IONI detects the undervoltage earlier than the PSU. If the latter occurs, there will be short time when the PSU stops it’s output completely, making the whole system likely to reset.
This undervoltage/overpower/short circuit safety feature is usually noted as hiccup mode in regulators and PSU’s.
Cheap linear PSU’s doesn’t usually have this kind of protection and they in most cases just output much lower voltage in high power demands. Their output capacitor also affects this a lot, and linear PSU’s suffer from extremely high input currents if the output voltage is kept very steady at high loads.
This is also why switching mode PSU’s are so much better at these applications.
Great explanation! Thank you guys. I would like to improve a little bit the Simucube 1 if possible (waiting for the next generation servo drive… ), only a little bit. 14,3A can eat my AKM servo, the power is everything so I was thinking to fight with the resistance because why not, I have a lot of solid silver (the best conductivity) 2-3mm pure rods 99.999% at home, used in audio systems in the past, so I want to change the original, rather thin, 2 power cables Mean Well -> Simucube on these rods, not big improvement I know. Soldered connections are the best and should be everywhere but rather impossible to do this with the MeanWell SDR. I have 3 meters Simucube -> servo/encoder cables, too long, I need to reduce to 1.3 meter only so this is my next step. Is it worth to change that big Simucube motherboard capacitor on the high end Japanese capacitor? What you think?
I see that you are motivated to modify. But what do you want to achieve with it? Is the performance not enough for you?
Or do you just want to do it to achieve the best?
In theory, shorter lines are of course better and desirable. How much of an effect this will have in reality is questionable.
What is the current line resistance? How much does this make up in relation to the resistance of the winding? So how much can be saved in percentage terms by shortening?
And for soldering the cable ends:
I am of the opinion that it is worse. The solder is soft and can deform over time due to pressure, so it loses its pretension, which can lead to a worse connection.
That’s why I prefer bare wires or ferrules.
Well, you didn’t try this probably before/after so you can’t be sure 100% is there any difference or not. I did it so I know what is the true, it cost nothing so why not to do it as good as possible? But thank you for your opinions
